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______________________________________________________________ The FSA licensed a twice convicted fraudster to handle our life“s savings. Guess what? He robbed us. http://raynipper.com
You could even try contacting the previous owner. Even if he was stateside.
Ray.
______________________________________________________________ The FSA licensed a twice convicted fraudster to handle our life“s savings. Guess what? He robbed us. http://raynipper.com
Thanks to Ray and Dave, I will try these sites. In the mean time can you help with the sequence of the electrics.
To be a bit more specific, there is a LPG genny, house batteries, an electric hook up (110v? I need to convert to 240v for the UK don't I?) and an invertor (I don't know what this is)
I suppose this is all standard stuff!
Can you in lay-womans terms explain how all this links together and how best to use the power available?
If I can bottom this I can then go on to the next thing WASTE!
Hi Paddie.
If the van is all still 110 volts then yes you are going to have to install a '110 to 240 volt transformer.
This in some instances can be installed to power the 240 volt UK 13 amp sockets as well as the old American 110 volt sockets.
If a professional electrician does the installation the genny can also power the original 110 volt sockets and appliances as well as feeding the transformer in reverse to power the UK sockets as well.
But and it's a big BUT. The transformer must be of a suitable size and quality. The yellow power tool ones although cheap are only meant for short use and will melt if used for long periods powering air con and other appliances.
The yellow ones are about £60 to £90 and the proper heavy duty ones are £150 to £200.
The inverter feeds off the 12 volt batteries to supply 110 volts to the sockets and appliances again. But takes an enormous load out of the batteries if used for more than a few minutes.
Where did you buy it? Was it private or dealer? You should have had a guided tour. What year, what engine, what chassis doe it have?
Ray.
______________________________________________________________ The FSA licensed a twice convicted fraudster to handle our life“s savings. Guess what? He robbed us. http://raynipper.com
Thanks Ray. So does this mean that without an electric hook up, all power should be pulled from the genny because the house batteries are not man enough? Would more/bigger batteries help? I would really like to be independent of the mains for as long as possible. Paddie.
You need to give some more context as to the source of this vehicle. As a recent import, has it been made UK legal?
If so, did whoever did this NOT convert it to UK electrics?
Where are you (I'm on MHF mobile so can't tell from avatar)? We might put you in touch with converters as clearly you won't be doing electrical work yourself.
As Dave says Paddie,
You have jumped into the deep end and now are trying to learn to swim.!!!
All motorhomes can exist on batteries alone given the right use and application. But like any vessel it will run dry when the tap is left open.
Personally I don't like LPG gennies. They consume lots of gas when used extensively and you will be forever trying to refill the tanks. Another learning curve. 240 volt power will be essential for normal use.
More info would help.
Ray.
______________________________________________________________ The FSA licensed a twice convicted fraudster to handle our life“s savings. Guess what? He robbed us. http://raynipper.com
I dont know your particular make/model, but i have rented many an RV in the states over the years.
Water/Waste works like this:
There will be a fresh water tank (filled with a normal hose from a tap), but there is usually also a fresh water inlet (you will need a hose - search ebay for RV hose). This temporarily connects the RV to the water tap, and usually (but not always in my experience), bypasses the water pump. In the US, its common for every pitch to have its own water supply. Not the case in the UK.
The are two fixed waste tanks. The grey tank, which water from sinks, shower etc collects in. There will also be a fixed black water tank. This is for toilet waste.
The toilet usually works like a Thetford one found in UK MHs, in that there is a slide in the bottom of the bowl for emptying..
Either in the front (or rear) bumper (you may need to remove an end cap) or sometimes in a side locker, you will find a big flexible brown hose with a bayonet fitting.
Outside the vehicle (usually on the drivers side), you will find a large (around 4inch) cap covering a big pipe. There will be two levers, one either side of the pipe.
To empty, remove cap and connect the flexible brown hose to the outlet as you would fit a bayonet type light bulb. Put the other end of the flexible hose into the toilet waste station hole (its best to weigh it down so it doesnt move). It's best practice to pull the black water waste valve lever (it should be marked) first. When this tank has finished draining, close the lever and then pull the lever for the gray tank.
If you do it the other way round (ie grey water first), you end up with a brown pipe that on the inside is covered in..............
In my experience, unless you are perfectly level (or better still slightly sloped so the outlet is lower than the tanks) it can take ages to empty the tanks, as the last trickles from either tank take ages to come out. You can buy a clear plastic pipe the connects between the outlet pipe and the brown hose so you can see what is going on.
Be warned.......double check both valves are closed and there is nothing left flowing before you remove the brown hose. I have seen too many people with brown shoes, and had it happen to me (once).
Best to wear rubber gloves too - the end of the hose that goes into the disposal point can get a bit "mucky". Its good form to rinse the inside and end of the brown hose just in case too.
You add toilet chemicals by putting them down the bowl with the slide open.
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