Welcome to Motorhomefacts, we are a thriving motorhome community (Largest in Europe). Why Not JOIN NOW and get instant access to more of the website. It costs nothing to join and only takes a few minutes. We have 200,000 different people visiting our site monthly and this amount of motorhomers in one place guarantees a fast response to any questions you may have. We also have unique facilities not found elsewhere such as our Online Logbook, stopover tracker, Motorhome directory with Ebay type feedback and the largest repository of motorhome campsites reviews found anywhere
I think you will find that on a RHD vehicle, the left hand beam is always higher than the offside. This gives you better illumination of the kerb and does not dazzle oncoming traffic.
Of course, if it is wildly out of position, then it needs adjusting.
______________________________________________________________ Diplomacy is overrated.
"The secret of happiness is freedom. The secret of freedom is courage". Thucydides 460 - 404 BC
Well I just got round to adjusting my lights...I now know why I never found the adjuster before as I was trying to see behind the headlight housing and not expecting the adjuster to be on the top and adjusted from outside the bonnet!!
Are you able to be a bit more specific about how you adjusted them please? I am still at a loss to find the adjusters. A photo would be nice if its not too much trouble.
If you look at the windscreen wiper/drain gutter just at the bottom of your front screen at each end directly over the headlight is a black rubber gromit....pop this out and you can see a white plastic adjuster.....find an appropriate sized allen key and turning it clock or anti clockwise will move the headlight beam up or down....I parked about 3m infront of a warehouse roller shutter door at work and moved them up about 2cms.
I am sorry if this is too obvious but lighting on a fully loaded van ready for touring, with the majority of its weight on the rear suspension, will differ considerably from the van you take for MOT testing or using as a runabout, when the rear suspension will be several centimetres higher.
Which is why you need the electric adjuster but when are you finding the lights so badly aimed, fully laden or empty? Before making radical alterations, the load needs to be considered.
I am sorry if this is too obvious but lighting on a fully loaded van ready for touring, with the majority of its weight on the rear suspension, will differ considerably from the van you take for MOT testing or using as a runabout, when the rear suspension will be several centimetres higher.
Which is why you need the electric adjuster but when are you finding the lights so badly aimed, fully laden or empty? Before making radical alterations, the load needs to be considered.
Alan
Yep I understand this Alan but my van is always full loaded and ready to go..and it still was a pretty poor light projection on dipped beam.
If I ever need to add more weight I can then use the cab adjuster...which is what it's for.
Following this post with interest as my 2010 Fiat dipped headlight projection is also abysmal and buttock clenching on twisty unlit country roads and this is fully loaded with full tanks. My in cab adjuster only lowers them!
So thanks to Paul and others for pointing out location of manual adjustment, will look at it tomorrow.
Its also worth pointing out my MH has a relatively short overhang and no garage so weight distribution should be reasonably uniform and therefore rear axle loading I'd expect to be within design limits. This begs the question do the MH converters actually set up and check headlight projection.
An enlightening and useful thread thanks to all for posts and OP for starting it.
______________________________________________________________ The point is that´s not the Point!
Following this post with interest as my 2010 Fiat dipped headlight projection is also abysmal and buttock clenching on twisty unlit country roads and this is fully loaded with full tanks. My in cab adjuster only lowers them!
So thanks to Paul and others for pointing out location of manual adjustment, will look at it tomorrow.
Its also worth pointing out my MH has a relatively short overhang and no garage so weight distribution should be reasonably uniform and therefore rear axle loading I'd expect to be within design limits. This begs the question do the MH converters actually set up and check headlight projection.
An enlightening and useful thread thanks to all for posts and OP for starting it.
I'm guessing they don't bother adjusting the lights...my Autoquest also has no garage and most of the loaded weight is front to just past middle.
The cab nose always points down when loaded or not...gives the impression of being slightly 'jacked' up at the back.
No real problems....apart from the fixing on the left hand side of the bathroom sink breaking...make sure the toilet seat is down when trying to pull sink down otherwise it can put stress on the sinks nylon fixing bolts and cause failure....easy to fix if it goes....had a cab fuse blow that took out all the instrumentation....eg speedo, tacho, gauges!....again easy fix. Check the rear back wall panel from underneath and see if it's sealed and not bare wood!....easily fix with a coating of liquid rubber. I have added an Ctek charger so I can keep the engine battery charged in winter...added shelves in some of the rear cupboards. (Storage for tins etc)....also made an extra fold down top for the door end of the sink top....put lagging on all pipes I can get at....I upgrade mostly just things that niggle me due to crap workmanship!
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum You cannot attach files in this forum You cannot download files in this forum
All times are GMT + 1 Hour Page 2 of 3Goto page Previous1, 2, 3Next