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The only other thing I could think of is to go back along the pipe to where you do have reasonable access, screw a ducting clip or similar to the base and attach it so the pipe is holding the pipe 'towards' the collar if that make sense?
Thanks Pete, The ones I have are more for support of the ducting and still allow lateral movement. There isn't anywhere to attach. I did think of light bungy cord taped on to the duct but not sure where to attach the other end to.
how about a bit of high modulus clear silicone... i ve used it to patch exhausts for the mot in the past and it certainly resists heat...
That sounds good. I can wipe some on the inside of the collar with my finger and pull back the duct to apply some round the end prior to pushing home. Any suggestions to make and supplier.? I dont know what high modulus is.
The joining 'tubes' on mine have a raised ridge which you push the pipe over, giving a little grip, and a previous owner had put cable ties around eash pipe to secure them above the ridges.
As an aside, I also had no heat to the two front vents, but could find no disconnected pipes even with a mirror on a stick to look in all the hard to see corners.
It turned out that one of the joining 'tubes' had a butterfly valve inside it which had closed, it was not obvoius from the outside that the plastic valve was in there and was only discovered when in desperation I pulled some of the joints apart looking for a blockage.
Toasty now.
The info off their website looked OK but it is staying soft for so long with little adhesive quality such that I am worried it might move before it has fully cured.
Those collars pull off.
I had the same problem, I pulled off the collar, which gave me loads of room to work, and used two self tappers to secure the ducting and pushed them back in, they are a sort of 'click' fit.
______________________________________________________________ Slán go fóill agus go n-éirí an bóthar leat
The info off their website looked OK but it is staying soft for so long with little adhesive quality such that I am worried it might move before it has fully cured.
Hi Andrew
Looking at the link you gave, the blurb suggests that it is a flexible sealant. You will probably wait for ever for it to go off (cure).
The info off their website looked OK but it is staying soft for so long with little adhesive quality such that I am worried it might move before it has fully cured.
just seen the thread... that will do the job perfect and if you need to cure it quicker use a heater to get the temp up to 20 degrees...
Those collars pull off.
I had the same problem, I pulled off the collar, which gave me loads of room to work, and used two self tappers to secure the ducting and pushed them back in, they are a sort of 'click' fit.
Yes they do but I dont have clearance to depress the lugs externally nor lift them internally. The lugs are set top and bottom, the top is jammed under the tuma and the bottom against the floor.
just seen the thread... that will do the job perfect and if you need to cure it quicker use a heater to get the temp up to 20 degrees...
I was a little premature on my previous post on the Loctite. The test piece has firmed up nicely after an hour and a half and has adhered to the paper very well. Good gap filling qualities on the larger piece in the pic which is 6mm thick. It seems ideal for the job. You just need to make sure there is no movement before it has cured sufficiently.
The small tube is easier to use one handed in a confined space than a cartridge and I have more working time to fiddle with the ducting than I would with contact adhesive.
I am going to go with this solution but I wont be dismantling the bed to test the result so wont be able to let you know.
Thanks for all your suggestions guys. It is much appreciated.
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