Repairing a a shower base Forums

jamjamjul

Hi there, after stripping off some plastic transfers from the plastic shower basein a newly acquired 2nd hand Frankia, I realised that they had been hiding or covering several cracks in the floor and I imagine water can leak onto the chassis etc..

Would anybody out htere in cyberspace know if it is feasible to repair the cracks using fibre glass, as is done when repairing small boats or even car bodywork.

My local yatch mechanic claims that it is not possible because fibre glass can only be put on fibreglass. I wasn't quick enough to ask him about car bodywork repairs. My local ironmonger says he's even used fibre glass to repair damage to doors and lockers made of wood.

Would any of you be able to help me please?

jamjamjul

I judge by the number of views on this topic that no one else has ever had this problem. Either that or no one knows how to tackle the problem. Quite a different kettle of fish compared to the roof sealant topic that I asked about in another area - of which I have received important feedback which has been an enormous help. Will promise to make a few contributions as I'm finding out all sorts of info whilst surfing motorhome/RV web pages - for example: How to fit a deadlock in a Peugot Boxer - complete with photos - here's the link and it's dedicated to a very, wild wild camper http://www.mhomes.ukgo.com/deadlocks.htm#top

I can't believe that fixing a shower base could be so difficult. I promise to return here with the answer if I don't have to sell the motorhome first.

jamjamjul

I found this on the web, Does anyone know if this method can be used on plastic?
GLASS FIBRE REPAIRS

If you have a glass buggy then at sometime you will need to repair it or modify it. Here I hope to give you an insight on how.

The strength of fibreglass is in the glass fibres NOT the resin, the resin is only a glue to bond the fibres together. If you use too much resin all you will do is make a heavy brittle structure, too little and the fibres won't be bonded together making it weak. Next comes the adhesion of new to old, resin is a good strong glue but it needs a good key so the item you are repairing must be well roughed up, I use a flap disc on a 115 mm grinder.

There is a lot of different types of resin and mats on sale but generally all you need for Buggies is resin A which is a general lay up resin plus it's catalyst (MEK methyl ethyl ketone) and a chopped strand mat of about 450 gsm - 600 gsm (grams per square meter). Mats and resins are sold in kilos, resin is approx 1 litre to a kilo, mat is self explanatory and you will need approx 1 kilo of resin to 1 sq metre of mat. When you buy the resin you should be supplied with enough catalyst for the resin. Proper suppliers will provide a better quality mat than the "kits" you get from car shops.

Resin is mixed at a ratio of approx. 2% catalyst, if the temperature is low you can increase the ratio a bit but be warned it can heat up dramatically and set it's self alight, for this reason DO NOT throw excess mixed resin into the bin and DO NOT use glass containers for mixing resin as they can shatter. I use washing up liquid bottles with the top cut of (when set, the resin falls out) or clean food tins.

Specialist tools are available but not all necessary. Special resin brushes are good as they have fewer bristles and are easier to clean but cheap paintbrushes do. Unless you are doing large areas, metal rollers are not needed. Catalyst dispensers are useful or a set of kitchen scales that weigh in 1-gram increments, container on scale-zero-1 kilo of resin -zero-200 grams of catalyst-mix up, easy. For cleaning up, Acetone is recommended as it will dissolve the resin but I use cellulose thinners as it is cheaper and as long as you clean the item and not just leave it to soak it’s fine. Disposable latex rubber gloves are highly recommended, as resin on your hands is difficult to remove. If you are grinding and cutting a disposable paper suit is also recommended as is mask and goggles as the dust is very nasty to eyes lungs and skin.

Anonymous

I would sugest that it's most unlikely that you will get a succesfull bonding between "Plastic" and GRP materials although "plastics" can mean many things, I have seen people try to repair a Sportyak (plastic tender) with GRP with no success.

I once made 135 shower trays in GRP in my garage in my spare time, why not try this, using the old tray as a plug to make your mould?

Ken S.

EOR · Last edited by EOR on Tue Apr 27, 2004 11:58 am; edited 1 time in total

Without actually seeing the ‘problem’ its difficult to give specific advice.

Shower trays in MH’s tend to be vacuum moulded from a polythene based material. Unfortunately this materiel is almost impossible to get anything to stick to it long term. But lets not get disheartened. Two options, if the original tray is easily removable and of a non standard size, and reasonably cosmetically sound, I would coat ALL the underside with GRP. By doing this, if the bond between the tray and GRP breaks down, it won’t leak everywhere and you’ll probably never know that it has leaked. While laying on the GRP, put some extra coats on to build up its strength. If the tray is not salvageable and of a similar size to ‘off the shelf’ models, I would cut it out, but leave about half an inch of the original tray lip all the way round. Cut new tray to drop in to hole. Take time to add plenty of support under the tray to avoid it flexing when stood on (you could GRP it as well). When happy, use a good quality no-nails product like Screwfix’s own brand, not Unibond and another so called top manufacturer’s brand of which I can’t remember the name of as they’re only good for wood not plastic based materials. Use this glue to bed the tray in to position. I recommend you put a blanket in the bottom of the tray with a board on top, then add at least 100Kg of weight and leave to dry for about 24 hours or more. Once dry you can then seal around the edges with a good sanitary silicone sealer. Its best to rough up the edge of the tray before fitting, to help the silicone bond to it.

Have I interpreted your problem correctly? If not do get back to me.

PS. Thanks for the dedication Very Happy

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[b:c0ad57 b021]Steve
aka A very wild....wild camper[/b:c0ad57b021]
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[URL=http://tinyurl.co.uk/lpak]Click here for my van website![/URL]
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[img:c0ad57b021]http://www.motorhomefacts.com/alb ums/PostingPhotos-1/VanThumbnail01.gif[/img:c0ad57b021]

[i:c0ad57b021]I do like a bit of feed back to my posts please[/i:c0ad57b021]
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Anonymous

Thinking about this in bed at about 04.00hrs this morning, if it's only a tempory repair until you a new or you find a method to do the job correctly, why not use duck tape. On 2 occasions I have done tempory repairs to sinks, even around the plughole and on another occasion repaired a 24 inch slash in a canoe putting three layers on in a herring bone pattern and that one lasted for over two years.

jamjamjul

These are exactly the sort of replies that gives one great pleasure when reading them. They make me feel like wanting to buy you all pint each (at the very least!).
Fantastic! Makes participating in a forum a real joy. The previous replies are really getting to what I'll probably end up doing. Do you think you could indicate how to ensure that the support underneath is suffuciently strong enough to resist the weight of a person? (about 84 kilos).
Might I ask a silly question? What is GRP? Would it be glass resin product?

Sorry I've been living in Spain since Franco died. If you prefer wine...
Jim

Anonymous

GRP = Glass reinforced plastic (fibre glass).

As for how to pack the bottom of a shower tray to take human weight I can only you what I have done when instaling several showers at home, although I they have been good quality GRP trays I still pack underneath to stop them flexing, I nomally cut two wedges from 4x2 timber (or in your case the appropiate size) place them back to back so they are adjustable by slideing them together between 4" to 8" I put "gripfill" on the bottom of the timber between the timber and on top of the timber, place under the tray and push the two wedges together to take up the gap, then leave 24Hrs to allow the Gripfill to harden. (the gripfill takes up the discrepancies between timber and tray and also bonds it together) Gripfill is a bonding and filling agent sold in tubes another one I think is called "no nails", I will only use Gripfill.

This is the method I use at home, it works for me and I'me 16.5 stone, a variation on this may work for you

Ken S.

BarryandSue

I have nothing to contribute to this theme, except to congratulate those taking part, and echo what Jim said regarding support in these Forums.

Well done, Folks.

EOR

When I install a shower tray, I bed it down on car body filler. My reasons, you can adjust the tray relatively easily and it stays put, when it has set in about an hour or so its rock hard/steady and you can carry on working on/around it, plus its rot proof.
____________________________________________________
[b:de9 d6eb529]Steve
aka A very wild....wild camper[/b:de9d6eb529]
.
[URL=http://tinyurl.co.uk/lpak]Click here for my van website![/URL]
.
[img:de9d6eb529]http://www.motorhomefacts.com/alb ums/PostingPhotos-1/VanThumbnail01.gif[/img:de9d6eb529]

[i:de9d6eb529]I do like a bit of feed back to my posts please[/i:de9d6eb529]
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