You are a Guest, please Join now to allow full access to the website and be part of our community. You can register by clicking the "Click Here to create an account" link at the top left of the page under our Logo
Thanks Steve,
I have a Peugeot 2.8HDI now with only a few miles on the clock. Can remapping be done at this early stage or is it best left until a couple of thou are on the clock? What about warranty is this affected? I have spoken with my insurerers and they are quite happy as long as I let them know and provide a copy of the invoice.
Hi Graham,
I would run the engine in first to loosen it up for a couple of thousand miles before considering an engine upgrade.You may even find when you have the toad on the back that the power is adequate.If you decide then on a re map or smartbox then I suggest you read the following post by DABurleigh before making a decision;-
While I stand by my earlier post as "big hand, small map" advice on this question, there are further subtleties MHF potential purchasers might like to ponder.
It is true that more factors can potentially be adjusted through re-mapping than through the use of a smart box; any and all of the information inside the ECU can potentially be changed with a re-map. This does not necessaily mean better power and torque gains, however, as the factors that are usefully adjusted inside the ECU to give these gains are the same factors that are adjusted by the smart box - the fuelling and sometimes the injection timing. Most of the factors inside the ECU that can be potentially adjusted are of no benefit to the power, torque or reliability of the vehicle; it's just a question of whether the changes are made inside or outside the ECU.
A re-map is not completely undetectable. Many modern vehicle ECUs now store a log of when they have been flashed, how many times they have been flashed and what file they have been flashed with. Vehicle dealers and manufacturers are more than capable of telling that an ECU has been overwritten simply by connecting the vehicle to their diagnostic equipment.
In addition the software that is stored on a vehicle ECU is as prone to bugs and glitches as any complex software and vehicle manufacturers do sometimes make updates to correct problems. These updates will be flashed to your ECU during servicing and can overwrite your tuned map. Once this is done there is no way for you to recover your tuned map; you would need to go and have the ECU re-flashed again in order to recover your lost power. You may have to pay again for this privilege, and is a point I encourage MHF re-mapping purchasers to check explicitly. This loss of data is obviously not possible with a smart box.
It would be a rare occurrence for a smart box to cause a fault code and most fault codes that can be set by the smart box illuminate a warning light on your dashboard so you would be well aware that a problem had occurred before you went to the dealer. There are codes known as "soft codes" that can be stored in the ECU without illuminating the warning light but these tend to be for very minor faults that do not relate to the running of the vehicle so will not point to or be caused by aftermarket enhancements.
All fault codes can be triggered in numerous ways and there are no codes that will immediately point to an upgrade being fitted. It is also common practice for dealerships to clear fault codes and retest the vehicle to see whether they re-occur before investigating further.Dave
as you can see there are pros and cons with both methods of engine tuning to consider,in your situation with a new vehicle I would prefer a smartbox which could be removed when it is dealer serviced.
Steve
______________________________________________________________ Life is merry with a Welshie and a Kerry
The following members of MHF thanked wakk44 for this posting
Thanks Steve,
I have a Peugeot 2.8HDI now with only a few miles on the clock. Can remapping be done at this early stage or is it best left until a couple of thou are on the clock? What about warranty is this affected? I have spoken with my insurerers and they are quite happy as long as I let them know and provide a copy of the invoice.
Hi Graham,
I would run the engine in first to loosen it up for a couple of thousand miles before considering an engine upgrade.You may even find when you have the toad on the back that the power is adequate.If you decide then on a re map or smartbox then I suggest you read the following post by DABurleigh before making a decision;-
While I stand by my earlier post as "big hand, small map" advice on this question, there are further subtleties MHF potential purchasers might like to ponder.
It is true that more factors can potentially be adjusted through re-mapping than through the use of a smart box; any and all of the information inside the ECU can potentially be changed with a re-map. This does not necessaily mean better power and torque gains, however, as the factors that are usefully adjusted inside the ECU to give these gains are the same factors that are adjusted by the smart box - the fuelling and sometimes the injection timing. Most of the factors inside the ECU that can be potentially adjusted are of no benefit to the power, torque or reliability of the vehicle; it's just a question of whether the changes are made inside or outside the ECU.
A re-map is not completely undetectable. Many modern vehicle ECUs now store a log of when they have been flashed, how many times they have been flashed and what file they have been flashed with. Vehicle dealers and manufacturers are more than capable of telling that an ECU has been overwritten simply by connecting the vehicle to their diagnostic equipment.
In addition the software that is stored on a vehicle ECU is as prone to bugs and glitches as any complex software and vehicle manufacturers do sometimes make updates to correct problems. These updates will be flashed to your ECU during servicing and can overwrite your tuned map. Once this is done there is no way for you to recover your tuned map; you would need to go and have the ECU re-flashed again in order to recover your lost power. You may have to pay again for this privilege, and is a point I encourage MHF re-mapping purchasers to check explicitly. This loss of data is obviously not possible with a smart box.
It would be a rare occurrence for a smart box to cause a fault code and most fault codes that can be set by the smart box illuminate a warning light on your dashboard so you would be well aware that a problem had occurred before you went to the dealer. There are codes known as "soft codes" that can be stored in the ECU without illuminating the warning light but these tend to be for very minor faults that do not relate to the running of the vehicle so will not point to or be caused by aftermarket enhancements.
All fault codes can be triggered in numerous ways and there are no codes that will immediately point to an upgrade being fitted. It is also common practice for dealerships to clear fault codes and retest the vehicle to see whether they re-occur before investigating further.Dave
as you can see there are pros and cons with both methods of engine tuning to consider,in your situation with a new vehicle I would prefer a smartbox which could be removed when it is dealer serviced.
Steve
Thanks Steve,
Sorry to reply so late, email did not tell me of your post. I will get some miles on the clock first as you say and weigh up the pros and cons. I see you have a Cheyenne 634L we had one for 8 years (just traded in) brilliant bus we still have pangs about her! Anyway we have to get used to the new one; still a few things to sort out with dealer and where we put all our stuff!
regards,
PS Van Aaken have gon bust.
______________________________________________________________ Graham
The following members of MHF thanked zappy61 for this posting
Well I had the towbar fitted and the A frame for the car done at Towtal,Stoke on Trent last friday.They have done an excellent professional job,the towbar is painted white to match the m/home.
I then towed the car back rather nervously at first but gaining in confidence every mile,went through Derby at rush hour which was very busy-a good test for the new set up.The conclusion is-what have I been worried about,it is very easy.
On a clear dual carriageway I took it up to 60 and even overtook a few HGV's,there was plenty of power available after having the engine remapped and keeping up with the flow of traffic wasn't a problem.
I am an ex tugger with 20 years towing experience and I think it is better and easier than towing a caravan,you don't get any snaking as large vehicles overtake and no feeling that the 'tail is wagging the dog' at all.The 2 main things to consider are to take corners a bit wider(as you would towing a caravan) and be cautious with access and egress.I have tried reversing and travelled about 3-4 mts before the car started to veer off line.
The reversing camera was essential for me,it is wired to a permanent live so I can watch the car all the time,without it I would only be able to see the car in my wing mirrors when turning a corner.
I think the A frame concept is a brilliant idea and wish I had done it sooner,thanks to everyone for their constructive advice on this thread.
Steve
______________________________________________________________ Life is merry with a Welshie and a Kerry
The following members of MHF thanked wakk44 for this posting
Took the toad out for a practice reversing manouvere yesterday,I am pleased to report that I can reverse in a straight line,reversed for about 10 mts but could have gone further if necessary.Reversing round a corner is another matter ,I could not do it without the car jackknifing.
Still I am more than happy with that,the reversing camera is an essential item when towing a car and I wouldn't want to be without it.I need a couple of things-some type of rubber or other protector on the towbar to fit just behind the towball to prevent any damage when driving the car forward to hitch up-any suggestions?
Also a number plate the same as the m/home,at the moment I have just got an 'ON TOW' magnetic plate on the back of the car.The number plate is easily sourced but what is the best and quickest way to attach it to cover the car's existing plate.
Steve
______________________________________________________________ Life is merry with a Welshie and a Kerry
The following members of MHF thanked wakk44 for this posting
Took the toad out for a practice reversing manouvere yesterday,I am pleased to report that I can reverse in a straight line,reversed for about 10 mts but could have gone further if necessary.Reversing round a corner is another matter ,I could not do it without the car jackknifing.
Still I am more than happy with that,the reversing camera is an essential item when towing a car and I wouldn't want to be without it.I need a couple of things-some type of rubber or other protector on the towbar to fit just behind the towball to prevent any damage when driving the car forward to hitch up-any suggestions?
Also a number plate the same as the m/home,at the moment I have just got an 'ON TOW' magnetic plate on the back of the car.The number plate is easily sourced but what is the best and quickest way to attach it to cover the car's existing plate.
Steve
Good to see another a-framer hitting the roads, good on you! I always change the number plate using it's existing screws rather than cover it, takes minutes. You also need red triangles to comply with towing regs. I havn't found magnetic ones like the ON TOW sign (which I also use but not legally required) but use normal lightweight plastic ones with superglued magnetic disks to apply to car's rear panel (also connecting string via the rear wiper boss incase they fall off). Good Toading!
Noel.
The following members of MHF thanked Noel for this posting
Took the toad out for a practice reversing manouvere yesterday,I am pleased to report that I can reverse in a straight line,reversed for about 10 mts but could have gone further if necessary.Reversing round a corner is another matter ,I could not do it without the car jackknifing.
Still I am more than happy with that,the reversing camera is an essential item when towing a car and I wouldn't want to be without it.I need a couple of things-some type of rubber or other protector on the towbar to fit just behind the towball to prevent any damage when driving the car forward to hitch up-any suggestions?
Also a number plate the same as the m/home,at the moment I have just got an 'ON TOW' magnetic plate on the back of the car.The number plate is easily sourced but what is the best and quickest way to attach it to cover the car's existing plate.
Steve
Hi Steve,
I fix my number plate over the existing one using spring clips (the ones for holding papers together where the clip handles fold back) then for extra security 2 large elastic bands over the ends of the plates or you can use velcro strip. For the triangles I use 2 small self adhesive velcro spots on the back window and 2 on the triangles so that I can remove and fix them easily.
I don't drive the car to the moho but reverse the moho to the car using the reversing camera (or she that is obeyed!) to within a foot of the frame. Then I pull the car to the ball and hitch it on. Sometimes I have to manoeuvre the car a little with the steering wheel but it is surprising how quick you get the hang of it. My car is of course lighter than yours (siecento less than 750kg actual but 1200kg MAM; daft I call it!).
Hope this helps Steve,
______________________________________________________________ Graham
The following members of MHF thanked zappy61 for this posting
My car number plate is flush fitting with no fixing screws so I must try and devise another method of fitting the m/home number plate over it.The red triangles will have magnets superglued to them(thanks Noel)
Steve
______________________________________________________________ Life is merry with a Welshie and a Kerry
The following members of MHF thanked wakk44 for this posting
Bookmarks
Watched Topics
,I could not do it without the car jackknifing.
