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[quote="eddievanbitz"]They are different products really. Battery Master is 100% waterproof and has internal fusing so it can be safely short circuited, as we intended it for DIY installation as well as selling it to dealers so it really had to be simple and bullet proof
Hard for me to say which will work better with a solar panel as I wouldn't waste my money on a solar panel to be honest, but like every thing else in life that is my opinion based on the way I use power in my van, which is like everything else in my life...excessive!
Both will do the job you want, Battery Master will help in a few more ways I guess (given my understandin of the CAK unit (fine Company BYW)
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I don't agree with you on solar panels being a waste of money, you fitted two to my van. We have stayed in the new forest for 10 days without hookup and never run the leisure battery down.
However we did flatten the engine battery by useing the radio all day. The battery master wasn't up to replacing the power drain of the radio.
I should have realised that? However the Pioneer radio satnav system had been wired to the engine and not the leisure battery, something I must get altered so that doesn't happen again.
______________________________________________________________ You don´t stop laughing because you grow old,
People seem a little confused about earth and negative? same thing.
The connections as previously stated were 123 or 456 3 & 6 being battery negative orange/white. I believe inside the panel it is just white.
Put yourself in Sargent's position and you would not advise anyone to open up your kit and attach additional wiring? in any event down the road if something failed in their excellent panel they don't want you turning around and saying BUT YOU SAID DO THIS that or the other.
Whether you connect there or at the split charge relay as per battery master instructions the result is the same and if Sargent say it may upset the charger you have to take account of that but personally I doubt it.
Whatever you do it is your decision ultimately and your responsibility unless you pay someone else to install it
Sorry to start this again but, but can someone clarify my thoughts
The CBE CSB-2 starts to divert charge from from the leisure battery to the starter battery when the leisure battery voltage exceeds 13.6 volts. A fully charged, the leisure battery will measure 12.6 volt
The solar regulator will only charge the leisure battery (ie produce 13.6 volts or more at it) when the leisure battery needs charging. ie its voltage is less than 12.6 volts
If you can have a full leisure battery, the solar charger stops sending charge to it. How is the starter battery charged?
Do you need to partly empty the leisure battery, to prompt the solar charger and CBE CSB-2 to divert charge to the starter battery?
Q Do you need to partly empty the leisure battery, to prompt the solar charger and CBE CSB-2 to divert charge to the starter battery?
A no
the cbe unit send a charge across [closes a relay and limits charge current] when the leisure battery is charged , it stays connected while the les. batt. remains charged, when the leisure battery charge drops from fully charged. it will drop the eng. batt. off
it works.
now your voltage observations are almost correct.
except, a working solar charger should produce over 12.6 v
when on a hook up same rule applies, the les. batt will be charged at aprox 13.5v allowing the 'relay' to close and dual charging commence
why the battery master is so expensive remains a mystery
My cbe unit has been fitted for a while now and it works just great!
Most solar regulators will supply a float charge of 13.6 volts and thus trigger the cbe unit. A fully charged battery OFF charge will display 12.6 volts or a little over so when the sun goes down and your leisure drops to 12.6 the cbe will stop transferring charge and continue when the sun is out to play again
I have purchased a CSB-2 battery manager and like a previous member, have found it difficult to find an auto electrician keen to solder it into the charging system as they don't appear to understand what they are connecting. I can't trust my own abilities at soldering and thought of just snipping the wires and reconnect through a 30 amp terminal block. Any problems with this solution?
Soldering is quite difficult without a VERY HOT iron. The relevant battery cables concerned with the split charge relay and van 12 volt distribution are quite thick so it needs very high heat within seconds or it will just be a dry joint.
Have you considered using piggy back crimps at the split charge relay? it really makes no difference whether you can see the unit or not.
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as well as selling it to dealers so it really had to be simple and bullet proof 
