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I've got the chance to buy a couple of Kyocera 60w PV modules, and I've been trying to do the calculations to decide what to do. Of course not buying the complete kit or having it installed means that I've got to get all the other components. I'm also a bit concerned about weight, as I must be near my payload.
I've currently got one leisure battery and don't know what size it is, as I haven't got the right tools with me to get the drivers seat off to look at it. I've only be able to survive 2 days without a hookup in the past, but that was before I got LED lighting.
Anyway, I need a regulator, mounting brackets, cable, diodes and fuses, so where is the best place to get them? Preferably from someone with a fast reliable mail order service.
What's the best way to get the cable into the van? This is my roof:
It seems to be fibreglass, with insulation partly filling the gap between the roof and ceiling. The battery is under the drivers seat, so it's a long way from the Status aerial (that I don't use), but I suppose drilling holes through the roof is a bit risky. Is it best to stick the mounting brackets on?
I did think of fitting one module on the roof, and having the other freestanding, so I can use it when I'm in one place for a long time, and position it to face the sun. Hopefully it would fit in the trailer when not in use.
I've been filling in the power requirements on Frank's spreadsheet as best as I can. The big power users are my laptop and mini Hi-Fi as I use them for hours each day. Of course the battery in my multimeter needs replacing, so I can't test the current drawn by the Hi-Fi today!
The manual with my fridge doesn't state the power consumption when running on gas. Is this significant?
Sorry about all the questions. Maybe it will help other people if they get answered! Any useful comments on things I haven't thought about yet would be appreciated
______________________________________________________________ John
and Charlie the dog, but he canīt read, write or use a computer!
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Hi John
The thing to bear in mind with solars is that it doesnt matter how big they are. The controller will stop them charging the battery when its full. So to make the best out of them try to fit as much battery capacity as you can. This way they will keep charging longer and you will accumalate more capacity and so last longer without hook up.
When AB B utt fitted mine to my old van they routed the cable under the vent over the kitchen but there are many good glands now that dont leak.
I had my solar taken off the old van and fitted to the new one.
The fitter used a gland that is very flush and doesnt leak (as yet in 2 yrs at least). The cable from the panel comes into the roof and into the regulator(controller). The controller has 2 fuses fitted one for the pcb and the other for the 12v feed to the batteries. The output wire goes to the battery and each cable (live and neg) has a standard car tyoe in line fuse.
Thats it.
The controller is a fox and they cost form about 50 quid upwards. Get one with a nice big display so you can see the voltage and monitor it
Bear in mind also that they dont like being shorted out so dont cut through the cable with a pair of wire cutters else you will short live and neg out and blow the panel. Also they dont like powering nothing so keep them covered up with a bin liner or 2 or in a blanket till you have connected them up.
My panel is a 55w and is about 3ft x 18in if that helps.
Phill
______________________________________________________________ When i die i want to die peacefully in my sleep like my grandfather... not terrified and screaming.......like his passengers
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will supply you with all the wiring, flexable conduit and fuses, very good mail order service. I have just fitted two panels myself, the junction box is IP66 rated, which is the minumum you want to go for (got it from B&Q) VWP also do waterproof bulkhead fittings for the flexable conduit. All cables are 16mm2 battery cable, again minimum you should go for.
I am belt and braces kind of guy, so I glued and screwed the panels to the roof. pics below.
______________________________________________________________ If you have a problem you canīt fix its because your hammerīs not big enough
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I've got the chance to buy a couple of Kyocera 60w PV modules, and I've been trying to do the calculations to decide what to do. Of course not buying the complete kit or having it installed means that I've got to get all the other components. I'm also a bit concerned about weight, as I must be near my payload.
John, the panels will be the biggest part of the deadweight gain when you add solar to your van. The weight of the reg, brackets,trunking & wiring are negligable. My 90W panels were 7.5 Kg apiece. So yours will be a bit lighter. I dont know if you have the intention or the space to fit a 2nd liesure battery but this would add more weight but would also bolster your reserve power.
Quote:
Anyway, I need a regulator, mounting brackets, cable, diodes and fuses, so where is the best place to get them? Preferably from someone with a fast reliable mail order service.
John have you checked to see if the panels already have blocking diodes fitted ? Most come pre-installed in the terminal box on the rear of the panel.
I used
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for misc items & found them to be prompt & reliable. They'll supply you with brackets, cable, cable gland, Sika flex & sika primer, used to bond the brackets & cable gland to the roof.
Cable gland like this
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from Aire & sun. Drill & radius the hole & Sika the gland down. Drill the hole in the roof large enough to get the compression gland nut out. Otherwise if the gland starts leaking your stuffed.
Quote:
It seems to be fibreglass, with insulation partly filling the gap between the roof and ceiling. The battery is under the drivers seat, so it's a long way from the Status aerial (that I don't use), but I suppose drilling holes through the roof is a bit risky. Is it best to stick the mounting brackets on?
John, I stuck my brackets down with Sika 252 & primed the brackets & contact areas with Sika primer. As far as I'm aware this "is" the best stuff for the job. It's one of Sika's top products. If the contact areas are cleaned properly the brackets wont come off. Being a sceptic I also used some self tappers. I did a control experiment with some scrap metal & some 252. It's impossible to break the bond this stuff makes by hand. Even with tools it's very difficult. It cures to a tough rubbery consistency.
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I did think of fitting one module on the roof, and having the other freestanding, so I can use it when I'm in one place for a long time, and position it to face the sun. Hopefully it would fit in the trailer when not in use.
Youl'll still have to lug the thing around & there's always the possibility it could get damaged. Personally if i had the room I'd have them both on the roof.
Quote:
I've been filling in the power requirements on Frank's spreadsheet as best as I can. The big power users are my laptop and mini Hi-Fi as I use them for hours each day. Of course the battery in my multimeter needs replacing, so I can't test the current drawn by the Hi-Fi today!
<Hat ready to be eaten mode>
If you can get two days out of one battery I'll wager that 120W of panels will be sufficient. I'm using 2 off 90 W panels charging 2 off 85 Ah/Hr batteries. Roughly in line with Franks rule of thumb about having as many panel watts as battery amps. On a recent trip to Mull which is probably a bit further north than you, my batteries were fully charged every day no later than 15.00 & we use a lot of Tv, blown air heating +LED lighting.
Quote:
The manual with my fridge doesn't state the power consumption when running on gas. Is this significant?
Fridge running on gas draws milliamps. Virtually nothing in real terms.
Have a look at my post
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It may help you visualise what's required.
I would also suggest that 16mm wiring is a little on the heavy side especially for terminations. 6 mm sq is plenty reducing to 4 mm for crimps & for passing through the roof gland.
Hope this helps, Dave.
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Hi Dave the reason for specifing 16mm2 is to keep the voltage drop down to less than 5% if he fits both. With my 260watts of panels using 16mm2 I should be within 10m of the batteries, which is the amount of cable I bought thinking it would be plenty, I ended up with about a foot of each left. its surprising sometimes how far you end up traveling.
Olley
______________________________________________________________ If you have a problem you canīt fix its because your hammerīs not big enough
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Olley, your van's the size of Buckingham palace though
Solar panels on the north wing, servants quarters in the south wing etc.
Someone on here's got a calculator for determination of the voltage drop over the cable length versus cross sectional area. Although important I would suggest less critical on a van the size of John's.
Dave.
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