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Sadly, the time had come for me to be on my way towards England and the start of the journey home. I bid farewell to my hosts, and say cheerio to the German and Dutch motorhomers. My neighbours are outdoors in the pouring rain cooking breakfast. The Germans love their barbeques, and a bit of rain won’t stop them. The barbie is under the awning, and I am presented with a hot dog for my breakfast, as I bid them good day. It tastes good. I must confess that the hospitality of these German and Dutch tourists has been remarkable. Whether or not it is because I am travelling alone, or whether they were being friendly to “earn” a tour of the Kon-tiki, I do not know. I have had several breakfasts brought to me, and also invited for drinks on various occasions. I do not speak German and so tended to mix with the Dutch a little, as the Dutch are quite remarkable English speakers. I will, however, learn at least 500 words in German for my next visit to the Lake.
There are two things different about my journey today. Firstly, I am not going all that far, only about 120 miles or so, to Switzerland, where I shall spend the night on the shores of Lake Lugano. More often than not, I travel 350 – 400 miles per day. Unusually, I have not reserved a pitch at a forward campsite. I have seen, on many an occasion, a campsite close to the Swiss/Italian border and thought – “yes, that looks good for a night stop”. Secondly, I am trying to get to England toll free.
My map is not particularly detailed, it is a “one centimetre equals five miles” job. I have looked at the route I intend to take.
Peschiera del Garda, SS11 to Desenzano and onwards towards Brescia, then the SP573 towards Bergamo and “Orio al Serio Airport”. From there, I think I need to go around the back of the airport, towards Seriate - the road is not numbered on my map, and then hopefully pick up the SS342 which runs direct to Como and the Swiss border. Well, that’s the plan! I also intend to check the mileage, as I believe this route to be shorter than the motorway route. Time wise, I have no idea, but I am not on a very tight schedule today anyway. The rain is, at the time of leaving Peschiera del Garda, absolutely hammering it down.
So, away I go. It is nine thirty and there is little traffic about. I am soon on the SS11 and as I near Brescia, the traffic begins to build. Passing Brescia, I often see the motorway, but I am unsure exactly where I am. I see a shopping centre with a branch of “Leroy Merlin” – I recognise that from the motorway. The A4 motorway is, more often than not, within view. Signs for Bergamo come quickly, and rather than following the map, I follow the signs. I am maybe doing 40mph, as apposed to my cruising speed of 62 mph on the motorways. I come to a roundabout, and there is not a sign of a sign for Bergamo, so I play it safe and head for Milan. Worse case scenario, I can pick up the A4 at Milan and head for Switzerland from there. I need not have worried, as the next roundabout is clearly sign posted for Bergamo and the airport. I am on familiar land now, and recognise exactly where I am. I have used Orio airport in the past, both as a passenger and as a “meeter and greeter”. The journey from Brescia to Bergamo is, well, slow to say the least. Maybe 30 mph as an average, but of course with peaks and troughs. I spot a sign for Como and think “this is easier than I thought.” Surprisingly, the road is now dual carriageway and remains so for a good few miles. The signs for Como are clear and I simply follow them on the SS342.
All is going well, but then everything grinds to a halt. There is an accident on a roundabout involving an overturned lorry and another lorry, damaged, but upright. I think I am in the village of Calco. The diversion involves approaching the roundabout on the “wrong” side of the road. I wait to be called forward by the “Carabineri”. As I near the roundabout, it is clear that my vehicle will not accept the detour. There are a couple of raised islands and I express my concern to the bobby. I hear him shouting to his colleague, but he is talking at the speed of a train and the only words I can make out are “inglese and camper”. He comes back to me and instructs me to follow him. He jumps in his Punto, puts the hazard lights on and I am escorted through the scene of the accident. The cars behind me are not allowed to do this. As I clear the overturned lorry, he pulls over and I wave in acknowledgement. He could have put the blues on for me!
As I head for Como, I see a sign for the A9 motorway for Milan. I need to be on this motorway, but destination Chiasso. I choose to ignore the sign in case it is a limited interchange or something, and proceed through Como centre and follow the signs for Chiasso from there. In no time at all, I am at the Italian/Swiss border, and I have my motorway pass on the dashboard, facing outwards, with today’s date filled in. There is a queue of about 50 vehicles at the border, but it keeps moving, slowly. As I approach, I am waved through, but then I am requested to halt. A rather stern looking woman – not too unlike your former home economics teacher, peers through at my pass, and then waves me on my way.
I only need to do one junction on the motorway, as I intend to fill up with diesel. I leave the A2 motorway in Switzerland at junction 52. There’s a point, are Swiss motorways known as “A” as they are in Italy, or some other letter? I pull up at a Shell garage, and, occupying the space of four cars, and effectively blocking off four pumps, I fill up. I put in just under 48 litres of diesel at 1.91 SFR per litre. I pay with the Nationwide debit card, but, interestingly, I am asked to sign the paperwork, rather than using the pin number. The petrol station is within sight of where I filled up on the journey to Italy, and, after checking the onboard computer, I notice my toll free route from Lake Garda to Melano is 11 miles less than the motorway route.
So, let’s look at the sums…..
My fuel computer is showing the MPG for the leg from Peschiera to the petrol station in Switzerland as 22.8 mpg – exactly the same as the previous weeks journey in the opposite direction, but via the motorway. So, I am 11 miles less in driving, so in theory, half a gallon better off. Let’s call it three Euro worth. (I only found out the other day that the plural of Euro is Euro. You can have ten Euro, but not ten Euros!)
My journey was toll free and so saved my pocket 14.80 Euro – plus the three Euro worth of diesel and I am 17.80 Euro to the better.
Is it worth it? Yes and no. Yes, if, like me you are not in a rush. No, if you want to crack on. Today’s journey has taken three hours and fifty six minutes, from Peschiera del Garda, Italy, to Melano in Switzerland. Last week, via the motorway it was 2 hours and 46 minutes. However, the outward journey was on a Sunday, so, I reckon today’s motorway journey would have been about 15 minutes longer, due to the volume of traffic and the fact the A4 is always busy with lorries. So, all in all, it takes about one hour extra to save about £14.00. Saying that, do you earn £14 per hour, after tax?
I am glad I tried the toll free route, but in future, I shall leave the Lake and head for Brescia, join the A4 as far as Bergamo – so maybe 3 Euro in tolls and the proceed toll free for the remainder. I think that will chop about 30 minutes off the journey and is a blooming good compromise, for speed and effort.
So, I am in Melano and ask the attendant where the Camping Montegeneroso is. It turns out to be less than a mile away and so I arrive. The reception is closed and there is a lift up barrier – in the down position. I so, so, so want to stay here. I work around and spot a chap who looks like he works there. He advises the reception is closed until 1600 – it is now 1335 but I can come in anyway. So, I return to the barrier, push down in it, and drive in. I pitch up. First problem, the pitches are sloping quite a lot, second problem, the hook up sockets look like the type you find in continental hotel bedrooms. I have a two prong adaptor, but these sockets have three holes. There is nothing worse than two prongs and three holes. I do not mind risking blowing up a hair dryer in a hotel room, but I don’t fancy blowing up the Kon-tiki. I decide not to use the electric until I have checked with reception that the two pronged adaptor will be OK. Next problem – the motorway noise and finally, high speed trains every few minutes. Ah well, I tuck in to a French stick and a bowl of hot minestrone. What more can a man want? The rain is relentless, and I estimate the temperature to be little above freezing – maybe four or five degrees centigrade. One thing I do notice, the fact that the site is not particularly clean. Litter bins for example are overflowing, with spillage onto the ground.
After lunch, I go for a walk in the torrential rain, safely housed under a recently acquired “Redrow Homes” umbrella and spot another campsite. I walk around and it looks a bit like a CL or similar. Maybe twenty pitches, with a few caravans that look like they are “seasonal”. There is a German, Rimor motorhome, pitched in the middle. Mmmmm, I think, close to the Lake, no trains and not near the motorway. I look at the reception area and a sign states (in Italian, German or French), to pitch up and pay later. There is no sign of a Visa symbol or similar. I have no Swiss Francs however, only Euro. Off I pop on foot, in the pouring rain in search of a bank. I ask at a local bar, and the nearest bank is two kilometres away, so I get moving. I find the bank and withdraw the minimum – 50 – yes 50 Swiss Francs. I go inside the bank and ask for the 50 SFR note changing into something smaller. The cashier knows I am English and wants to speak English. We chat for a while about where I have been and so on. I bid him good day. Our dialogue is a mixture of English and Italian. I don’t suppose that the Raiffeisen bank gets many visitors of Great Britain.
I return to Camping Montegeneroso and pack up my belongings. I lift the barrier and check myself out – if you can call it that when you have not really checked in! I drive the short distance to the un-named campsite, pitch up, plug in to traditional blue round sockets and the kettle goes on. Up goes the Oyster dish and locks on quickly to Astra 2. I can watch BBC1 North clearly, where as at Garda in the rain, BBC1 North was breaking up badly, and I had to make use of BBC Oxford. Interesting to think that just 100 miles closer to the centre of the satellite footprint gives a much stronger signal.
The kettle goes on again.
Later, the landlady appears to I go in the office to pay. The office doubles as a bar and within minutes of opening, is full of locals. All speak Italian and explain that, from the border as far as the St Gotthard Tunnel, Italian is the principal language. I question the locals about the St Gotthard pass. It is still closed and unlikely to open until the middle of May. I ask how long it takes to go over the top. Even I am impressed by my Italian. The locals estimate about one hour in a camper, as opposed to about 15 minutes in the tunnel.
I am offered a beer, and the landlady produces lots of leaflets about the surrounding area. It is such a shame it is raining, as I am pitched 25 metres from the Lakeside, yet the rain, low cloud and generally miserable weather spoil proceedings.
The bill for the pitch comes in at 27.50 Swiss Francs – so about £14. The toll free route has paid for this! I enjoy the beer and banter, when a homemade chocolate cake appears. I love little sites like this. I discover the site is called Piazzale Mara and the website is www.piazzalemara.ch - I think I shall stop here again on my next visit to Italy, after (hopefully) coming over the St Gotthard pass.
A review of the site will be added to the campsite database in due course.
Day 2 – after a good nights sleep, I get up and in Great British fashion, first job of the day is to put the kettle on. I have a couple of slices of toast – made with Warburton’s bread that has been in the freezer. Yum yum, in my tum.
At 0930, I am on my way and head for the A2 motorway and the Gotthard tunnel. The weather is terrible – driving rain and a lot of mist – bordering on fog to be honest. At last the rain stops and in no time at all, I enter the 17 km long St Gotthard road tunnel – the longest road tunnel in Europe. Upon entering the tunnel, I am greeted with a phenomenon. Well, sort of. My cab area mists over very quickly. Not inside, but outside. The wipers clear the windscreen, but there is nothing I can do about the side windows, other than lower the windows so I can see my mirrors. The electric heating element quickly clears the mirrors. Emerging at the other side, the weather is dry and there is a glimmer of sunshine. I give the MultiJet some real pan handle, and crack on at a pace until the service area at Lucern Nord. Here, I stop for a quick coffee and decide to add a bit of diesel. I am not sure exactly how many miles I shall cover today as I have not researched it, but I am heading for Charmes for a two night stop. I estimate the mileage to be about 280, plus a further 100 to Luxembourg from Charmes,. This means that from adding cheap fuel in Switzerland, to getting more cheap fuel in Luxembourg is about 380 miles. Now, with a twenty gallon tank this should be no problem, but I never like to be down to the last few dregs. I have 22.50 Swiss Francs – the “change” from the 50 Franc ATM withdrawal, after the camping fee was paid, so I use this to add just eleven litres of fuel. I feel more happy now that I will reach Luxembourg with fuel to spare.
Back on to the motorway and once again, I open up the MultiJet and reach the Swiss/French border in no time at all. Do you remember your former gym mistress? Well, she is on duty at the border, but pays no attention to me, or my toll pass. I have, incidentally filled it in with today’s date – the 11th April.
From the campsite this morning, to the border is 170 miles dead. My journey time is three hours and ten minutes, plus the coffee stop. My average fuel consumption on this leg was 24.0 mpg – according to the computer. The sat-nav, remains switched off.
From the border, I take the A35 motorway northwards – toll free of course and at the interchange with the A36, I head for Mulhouse and Epinal. As I near the junction, I stick twos up at the Peugeot factory, and say “that’s from Carol” – Carol being Carol as in CarolGavin! I consider going to visit the factory and asking to speak to head of operations in the Scuttle department, but pass on this activity as the A36 looms. The traffic here is busy and a few junctions down the line, I take the N66 towards Thann. As the dual carriageway comes to an end, the traffic builds and there are quite a lot of traffic lights. I last used this route in January 2006 with my Compass motorhome. Traffic thins out as I near the Coline de Bussang and I begin the climb. A few hairpin bends later, and I reach the top; a wooden signs confirms the altitude is 721m. I would love to have stopped for a cuppa, but the rain is relentless again, and it is cold.
Descending the hill is a lot easier than ascending. More or less a straight road, but I leave the Fiat in fourth gear, and she holds nicely at 35 mph. Just past the town of Bussang, I park up in an open square for a coffee.
Onwards again to towards Epinal and the N57. I am staying overnight at Charmes, but have booked into the campsite as I am “just not sure” about Aires. Charmes is sign posted from the RN57 and I follow signs for the town centre. I follow my nose and amazingly, I spot a sign for the campsite. The manager has already advised me there is only one campsite in the town – so this must be it.
On arrival, I am greeted by the owners who advise that, due to the last few days of rain, they advise that I try to park with my driving wheels at least on the road. This is not a problem as the site is very quiet. I pitch up, plug in, kettle on and hey presto, all sorted. I return to the office to pay. The official tariff is 12.50 for the first night and 11.65 euro for the second. This price includes two adults and electric. As I am travelling single handed, I am offered 11 euro per night, which, not a massive discount, is better than nothing. I pay my 22 euro and order a baguette for the morning.
I later explore the Aire de Service, and I ask a Dutch motorhomer where one pays the fee etc. He has been told the fee is eight Euro including electric. I have been unable to confirm this. The aire looks nice and there are about 10 motorhomes settled in – mostly Belgian, some Dutch and one or two French. No Brits to be seen. I like the look of the Aire and would have stayed there. I know for next time. (I later learn the aire costs 6 euro in the summer and 5 euro in the winter. Showers are charges at 1.50 euro.)
Day 3 – Saturday. No driving today as I want to explore te surrounding area using buses, trains and feet!
Day 4 – I leave Charmes early doors and head for Nancy, where I intend to spend a short while. The fuel gauge is showing just over half full. Notice I do not say half empty! I have a coffee in McDonalds in Nancy where I make good use of the free, and high speed Mc Wifi. I download all the important updates for my spyware, antivirus and Microsoft updates, making full use of the high speed connection. Soon after, and a bit of fresh air, I am on my way again, heading north towards Luxembourg. Once in Luxembourg, I pass by the service areas as I intend to fill up “off the motorway”. I follow a sign for “centre” and it is as though the road is lines with filling stations. The diesel is on offer at 1.12 Euro per litre. This is slightly more expensive than on the motorway in Luxembourg two weeks prior! Ah well, I am here now so I fill the Kon-Tiki’s fuel tank to the brim – just as though it were a “sample jar” for the local doctor! In goes 65.08 litres. This means that in theory, I had about 35 litres slopping about in the tank. As mentioned earlier though, adding those 11 litres in Switzerland brought peace of mind. Plus I wanted rid of the Swiss Francs.
I also take advantage of some Benson and Hedges, and Luxembourg prices of 36 euro for 200.
I rejoin the motorway – less than half a mile away and as I pass the services on the motorway – I think the signs stated the diesel is 1.14 euro per litre. It seems to have gone up in the last two weeks – but, interestingly, is only marginally more expensive on the motorway than off it.
A late lunch is taken in Belgium in a lorry park. How delightful. The smell of diesel and urine outside are soon eliminated by the smell of smoked bacon cooking indoors, and made into a butty using a baguette, fresh this morning from the campsite delivery. The diesel looks to be on offer at 1.28 euro per litre – not bad for motorway prices.
Continuing my usual route, I head for Arlon, Mons and Tournai, before entering France and heading for the Lille ring road. The latter is one of the busiest stretches of road I have experienced, not just on this trip, but over the years. Following the signs for Dunkerque, I am soon given a good shaking by the road surface of the A25. Come on “President de France” – sort it out. I know it is free, but I am fearful for the well being of my dinner set! Enough is enough, I can stand no more, I leave the A25 and head for St Omer, and will head for Calais on the “N” roads. Passing St Omer, my mind turns once again to fuel. I can remember filling up at a “Total” service station on this road last April, only to find a “Champion” supermarket a few miles down the road, selling at about 10 euro cents less per litre. My memory served me well. I pass the “Total” garage and a few minutes later, spot the supermarket, with the familiar 24/24 logo by the petrol signs. I head for the pumps, an, following the on screen instructions, insert my Nationwide debit card, select option 3 for diesel and later enter my PIN. At last, dispensing can commence! I add 48.57 litres so that once again, I am on the brim!. Slight problem though, I do not think I can get out of the petrol pump area, due to the shape of the exit road, raised kerbs and so on. No bother, reverse out, but some dim-wit has pulled up behind me. There are three pumps free, all selling unleaded and diesel, and he has to go behind me. I pop the hazards on and shove the gearbox into reverse. The car driver hoots, but I carry on regardless. He soon shifts out of the way, and I confess that my three point turn would have impressed Jeremy Clarkson.
I make my way towards the ferry terminal, travelling along the Route de St Omer. “Boozers” cash and carry is still open, so I call in and top up with French beer at 5.25 Euro for 24 bottles. When I say top up, I mean cram as many in as I can. I am unlikely to be crossing the water again until September at the earliest.
The parking area at Calais is home to a few motorhomes – ten at the absolute most. I put the oven on and in goes a pizza. Out of the fridge comes a bottle of Stella.
I reflect on my toll free route for a while. I know, I paid for the Swiss thing, but let’s be fair – at 32.50 SFR for one year it is hardly a fortune. I have had three overnight stops – with two nights spent in Charmes. This did make the journey seem a long drawn out affair, more of an affair than Deirdre and Mike all those years ago.
Day 5 – Calais to the UK. Even this turned to be eventful as those thoughtful French fishermen decided to block the harbour for a while.
Once underway, I inspected the self service restaurant on the Pride of Burgundy – P&O. It looks edible and was hot – a vast improvement on my last meal on the eastern channel. I had a full English and two slices of (cold) toast - £6.48. The sausages were excellent, the scrambled egg had not, judging by the taste of it, been scrambled recently.
Off the ferry, and customs quiz me as to the ownership of the motorhome, how long I have owned it etc. They are not concerned by all the bottles rattling in the boot.
The A2/M2/M25 and then the A1 all beckon and I crack on at a pace. Next stop Camping and Caravanning Clubsite at Boroughbridge.
I think, from now on, my route will be…..
Calais – St Omer – Lille – Tournai – Mons – Charleroi – Arlon – Luxembourg – Metz – Nancy – Epinal – Bussang – Mulhouse – Basle – Lucerne – St Gotthard – Lugano – Chiasso – and then the back roads – the SS342 from Como to Bergamo – then motorway (£££££) as far as Brescia, and then toll free again on the SS11.
If severe weather is forecast in winter times, I shall replace the Metz – Basle part with Metz – Chartea Salins – Saverne – Obernai – Basle.
Either way, the tolls should be the Swiss part, plus about 5 euro.
I have enjoyed trying new routes and alternative places to refuel.
I might even try Spain in winter – toll free of course!
______________________________________________________________ Though I am not above the sorrow
Heavy hearted
´Til you call my name
And it sounds like church bells
Or the whistle of a train
On a summer evening
I´ll run to meet you
Barefoot barely breathing
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I hope the rain has gone by the end of the month as I am going to switzerland for a week or so,Is it a lot farther to travel through belguim and luxemberg rather than the motorway via rheims- nancy I know you save on the toll,so and cheap fuel in luxie,but is the saving not lost to extra miles
The following members of MHF thanked mgw for this posting
If you put Calais to Strasbourg in your ViaMichelin.co.uk etc you will get a given mileage.
Ask it again, this time via "ARLON" in Belgium. What ever the answer is, decuct a few miles of this result, as you will pass ARLON, and not detour off the motorway into ARLON.
Tolls Calais - Strasbourg for my lump are about 60 euro. Not worth it at all.
I think it is about 40 euro for a non TAG axle motorhome.
Russell
______________________________________________________________ Though I am not above the sorrow
Heavy hearted
´Til you call my name
And it sounds like church bells
Or the whistle of a train
On a summer evening
I´ll run to meet you
Barefoot barely breathing
The following members of MHF thanked Rapide561 for this posting
Tar very much for the twos jolly decent of you old chap
Am liking Peugeot now................................................yer right not yet
Sounds like an interesting journey Russell well done!
We have decided to just go to France this year due to costs and site avaibility in Garda. But we are planning to go next year at this time of year in the school hols. We will be using your post for info.
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