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Lens Hoods do keep down lens flare but to be honest with you, if your lens didn't come with one, I wouldn't loose sleep over it.
What I would buy is a (optically) good UV filter, not necessarily for it's UV properties but merely as protection for the lens. £20 for a new UV filter as against £250 for a new lens.
Whilst I have a Conkin filter system with a few filters, I can't remember the last time I used either a Graduated or Neutrel Density filter. However, I do use my Polorizing filter quite often, but at upwards of £70.00 you might get Annie to buy you one for your christmas present. If you do buy one in the future, buy the largest diameter filter you can and then buy the necessary conversion rings (cheap) to fit whichever lenses you have. I didn't do this and so had to buy a second filter for a different lens.
One thing you will probably notice when you come to have your images printed is that the printed colours look nothing like the colours on your monitor. At that time, you may want to consider having your PC monitor calibrated. One can buy gizmos and software to do this.
The Kit lens is, by all accounts, quite a good lens. It has reasonable dynamic range so it will serve you well until you decide what kind of photography you favour. Personally, I'm now tending towards shooting landscapes etc and therefore am drifting towards wide angled lenses. (Sigma 10-20mm) You may decide to shoot wildlife and will therefore want to consider lenses like the Canon 100-400mm (circa £800). Good glass isn't cheap so my advice is to not buy any further lenses until you know which direction you want to go. Like buying a MH I suppose!
Oh, one final thing, each photograph you take will have embedded in it all the data appertaining thereto ie everything from
datetime taken
lenses type used
focal length
exposure time
camera type
profile used.
exposure compensation etc etc etc. Have a look in the manual about EXIF data.
Strangely I use graduated neutral density filters all the time! For landscape photography they are essential.
I have software that simulates a polaroid filter and tend to stick with that. A good wide angle lens for landscape, a 50mm ish lens for portraits and a long lens for wild life. If you buy a 18 - 200 lens get one with stablisation or a tripod.
If you're into close ups a macro lens!
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