Inverter to warm motorhome while driving? Forums

GeorgeTelford

Hi Doug

on conventional split charge system if there is a load at the leisure it will supply more ampage (to its limit) a split charge is still putting 13.8- 14.2 v into leisure measure one and see. The other important point to note is that its like a split charge system is a figure of speech and does not mean that its a two way street powr wise.

ie it (The Sterling unit) as not stopped being a supply and therefore is not running the battery down awaiting a new Charge cycle.

George

Anonymous

HI Goerge,

I must be a little thick tonight as I am having trouble understanding your text, can you do a re-write with a little bit more explanations.

I dont see where the diode splitters come into it, Yes I know that when the Sterling charger in its off cycle the system reverts back to the alternator machine sensing control.

If the alternator in the machine sensing mode is not capable of supplying all of the power required by the inverter then the battery voltage will drop down to 12 volt at which time the sterling controler will kick in, increase the alternators output and recharge the battery. ie 1 cycle.

Or are you talking about somthing else completely, sorry

Doug...

Road_Runner_644

Acknowledge the point about the heater matrix Twodogs, i suppose it would be wise to check it out, but the heater does seem reasonably good. Its these hymer roof vents that i blame.

And Doug

What i thought i was reading in the text on the sterling page, was that the advanced regulator would kick off dumping 70+ amps into the batteries if they were well down in charge. But it wouldn't keep this up based on the readings it had taken and guessed the total ampage of the batteries.

I would expect it to kick in if a load was placed on the batteries, just like a normal regulator, but i admit i'm a bit puzzled by the "timed cycle" bit, stating that it would turn off, and start all over again.

It seems daft that it could be "tricked" though, it says constant monitoring, so maybe it has a rethink if theres a sudden pull on the batteries.

Isn't it great when intelligence is applied to these little electrical thingy's

I'll give them a ring before i buy one to check it out.

Cheers

Dave

Phild

Hi twodogs
[quote:d19fcec110="twodogs"]hello roadrunner 644
we run a hymer S670 and before that a S555 The cab heating isnt to bad on a run sounds to me like you need to flush out the heater matrix .
all the best
Twodogs[/quote:d19fcec110]
This is also a must try. I've only had my S555 since June 04 and we used it every moment we had! I'm now looking at the few minor problems like the heater before we set off again in April (when I my holls reset.)

BTW everyone, I've sacked the genny idea. I dont think I could enjoy my stay on a site knowing it was running, however quiet!!!

I wish I was better with electrics, I'm soon lost. (sorry Dave)
Phil

GeorgeTelford

Hi Doug

the text you refered to said it would revert to "split charge" like operation after charging cycle completed.

At this point the alternator will be supplying 13.8v to 14.2 v under its normal operating position, this means that the battery will be being supplied via the alternator (with as much power as the alternator is capable of) and not be dropping the battery down to 12v

It is not the same as "split charge" in that you would not lose charge to the starter side like a split charge system does (Do not ask, I have not got time to explain this again, last time it ran to about 15 pages)

George

autoroller7

Hi Phil,

I have had the same problem with my Autoroller (7 berth, so big living area to heat). We just couldn't get the heat from the cab to the rear, and the Fiamma vents have a permanent ventilation facility, which is a pain on the move in winter.

So I have now installed a second heater matrix & fan unit (from CAK Tanks) - I have plumbed it in parallel with the cab heater. It was a bit unnerving, since it came with no installation instructions. I have also fitted Fiamma thermal screens.

The new setup seems to work a treat, although we have only taken it about 50 miles so far. We shall see at half term how it works for real.

Good luck with whatever you decide.

Nick

Phild

Hi Nick,
Didn't know cak tanks did anything like that. I was thinking of a rear heater out of a Nissan Serena.
I'm sure the roof vents are a major part of the problem. Mine has an extra one above the overcab bed and it's leaking from time to time.
Doh, if only I had 50 grand spare, it would save me days of work!!!
Cheers Phil

Anonymous

Hi George,

We are obviously talking from different levels of experiance so lets drop it.

regards Doug...

HookyHymer

Hi Phil,
Regarding the original problem of the heater not being very good, I had the same problem on mine, I found that the flyscreen mesh inside the entrance to the air inlet trunking in the bumper was completely blocked with mud & sticks, took the mesh out and washed it, the heater is now more than good enough.
Worth a look!
Regards
Glenn

ladybird

Hi,

Am I doing things wrong, we run our hot air heating system whilst we are driving, this is run of the bottle gas and it heats a boiler, should we not be running this whilst moving. we also run the fridge on gas all the time as well (even though it is a 3 way fridge) as we find it works better.

Would be glad to know if what I am doing is dangerous.