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Re: battery
443948 PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 2:51 pm Thank this member for this postReply with quote
sallytrafic Subscriber 19/01/2009 
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spykal wrote:
sallytrafic wrote:
Thought so, perhaps the basis was when cells were predominately glass you put them on wood formers to prevent point loading from irregularities in a masonry/concrete/brick surface


Hi Frank

After the glass separator batteries later came the introduction of the hard rubber cases, which were somewhat porous and had a high-carbon content. An electrical current could be conducted through this container if the moist concrete floor permitted the current to find an electrical ground. The wise advice of the old days to "keep batteries off concrete" has been passed down to us today, but it no longer applies because of the advanced technology of today’s batteries. ( snipped from somewhere as it was quicker than typing it Wink )

Sounds logical....


and as for how to survive for 5 days ...first off get a good digital voltmeter and learn how to use it , then make sure you know what uses 12volt power in your van and find out how to isolate and switch off each bit of equipment....

Then make sure the batteries are up to scratch before you set off ... a good charge on a hook up at home for 24 hrs or more ( depending on the charger) before you go will ensure that they are as good as they are going to get . If you know how to then previous to charging and after charging checks on the electrolyte levels and specific gravity will help show up any weak cells in older batteries.

So learn to "love your batteries" they will repay you in watts...or is that amps Laughing

Mike


I never knew a battery with a conductive coating. Still think its a myth as for that to be the case the battery charger or load would have to be referenced to earth and specifically when I worked in a battery shop they were not, this was to avoid a single fault taking out the battery system. ie either positive or negative could short to earth and no harm was done.

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443964 PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 3:41 pm Thank this member for this postReply with quote
spindrifter Subscriber 18/07/2009 
 
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Explanation:-

A battery placed on concrete will not discharge any faster, but a battery will discharge over a period of time wherever it is placed. If the battery has a surface layer of acid or grime which is conductive, the battery will self-discharge more rapidly than if it were clean and dry.

This myth does have some historical basis. Many years ago, wooden battery cases encased a glass jar with the battery in it. Any moisture on the floor could cause the wood to swell and possibly fracture the glass, causing it to leak. Later came the introduction of the "hard rubber" cases, which were somewhat porous. A current could be conducted through this container, which had a high carbon content, if the moist concrete floor permitted the current to find an electrical ground. The wise advise of the old days to "not store batteries on concrete" has apparently been passed down to us today, but it no longer applies.

Hope this helps

David (Spindrifter)
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443966 PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 3:55 pm Thank this member for this postReply with quote
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Hi,

I still cannot imagine that a battery stored on concrete would discharge faster, even with a "hard rubber" case. If the hard rubber case were conductive enough for a significant discharge, then the currents would flow directly through the case, no matter on what ground the battery stands.

There might however be another reason for not storing lead-acid batteries on concrete, which has nothing to do with battery discharge: If for whatever reason acid leaks out or is spilled onto the concrete floor, then this might cause serious corrosion.

Best Regards,
Gerhard

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446969 PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 5:43 pm Thank this member for this postReply with quote
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My brother in law ran a battery manufacturing factory for many years, I asked him about batteries on concrete floors because I too had heard the story. He says largely an urban myth, although if the the floor is damp condensation may form on the batteries causing a 'leak' and a slow discharge, Alan.
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446979 PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 5:54 pm Thank this member for this postReply with quote
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Hi, could it be down to the simple fact that cold kills the battery faster than warm ? and concrete is a dam site colder than say wood ? Never realy bothered about it though,if the battery cannot stand the cold it is ready for a replacment Laughing
terry

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Re: conserving battery power advice please
493742 PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 5:35 pm Thank this member for this postReply with quote
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hilldweller wrote:
Myrtle wrote:
(alarm, heating, fridge, etc.)


Alarm - next to nothing.

Heating - gas.

Fridge - gas.

Lighting, quite a bit, fit LEDs.

Well that's now our MH works, yours may be different.




Heating - mine is blown air only and uses 12V to run and to power the fan

Fridge - mine runs only on 12V but uses far less than the three way type.

Television - none

Gas oven - none

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493772 PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 6:33 pm Thank this member for this postReply with quote
Glandwr Subscriber 14/06/2009 
 
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With the alternators and charging managing thingys fitted to vans these days, in extremis could you not run your engine on tickover? Be interested to hear the replies of the informed on this subject. Not saying it would be economical but how long would it take to recharge?

Dick

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493777 PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 7:05 pm Thank this member for this postReply with quote
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Hi about 2 to 3 hrs I was informed,still a lot cheaper than buying a genny etc for only the occasonal use Laughing then again a 4 cyl genny may be a bit of overkill
terry

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