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Apologies Barrie, I didn't mean to call you Alan, must be an age thing!
I would second what Jock said about not having the buzzer working.
About 2 years ago I drove through town to fill up at the shell garage and after having drove between other vehicles to get to the pump, a chap came up to me and said " do you know you have your steps down"? I nearly had a fit having seen what I had almost hit on the way in! The switch for the buzzer had stuck at the 'up' position and only required a squirt of WD 40 and a bit of a work out to get to get it running free again. It's not just the damage to your steps at risk, but what if you ran it down the side of another vehicle?
Depending on how much you want to spend on your repair, i.e. either to replace the tray or to have a professional repair, or a DIY job.
For a DIY repair, drill a hole in the tray at each end of the crack, this will stop the crack from spreading. Then fill the void under the tray with expandable foam. When the foam sets it can be tidied up by cutting any off that protrudes from the edge.
Not a professional job but very effective.
Drew
______________________________________________________________ Loch Sloy
This I´ll Defend
I too have a Hymer B584 with a crack in the shower tray. Mine is a 2005 model and I think is the same bathroom as yours.The shower tray covers the whole of the bathroom floor, it is fitted about 6inches off the floor of the van and is supported on plywood supports. Mine is cracked in the gulley around the actual shower part. I feel that any repair will need additional support but it is difficult to see how to provide it. there is limited access by removing the panel below the door. I have used adjustable kitchen unit legs. This has stopped the crack getting any worse but I think removal and repair or replacement is the only answer. In my case I have bitten the bullet and obtained a new shower tray, Cost about £250 but have yet to build up enough enthusiasm to totally strip out the bathroom, I had a quote from the Hymer service centre in Germany for 1200€ to replace the shower tray, this is a lot less than I have been quoted is this country.
Good evening all.
Many thanks to everyone for all the time you have taken to reply to me.
Just as I thought, a mine of information here.
Lockkeeper has hit the nail on the head, exactly the same problem I have.
I have, being a practical sort, investigated since I noticed this a couple of months ago.
The problem stems from the circular shower floor section flexing.
This is caused by a gap between the plastic shower floor & it's wooden sub floor.
If you stand on the edge of the shower the crack opens.
My plan of action is to find a suitable plastic adhesive, stand on the floor to open the crack,insert the adhesive, step off the floor so the crack closes & let it set. The next ploy will be to fill the offending gap between the floors with expanding foam & hope !
I have incidentally contacted Hymer saying that I thought this should not have occurred at this early stage in the vans life.
They have answered by saying they would POSSIBLY contribute some of the cost to replace the floor.
Quotes so far are around £1250.
I'm now waiting to see how much of this figure they are prepared to cover.
I'll keep you updated.
Thanks again.
Barrie.
The foam solution sounds good to me as will also provide support from underneath and I can vouch for it being waterproof (I've fixed drain pipes with it) and it is also one of the strongest glues I have come across (just try and get it of your fingers)
The foam could easily be trimmed back and the drilled holes filled with silicon as the foam does go brown with age.
It's worth testing it somewhere else first as it does expand more than you think but at a slower rate than than you might expect.
Some while ago you may recall I asked a question re repairing a split shower tray on my 584 & said I would post once I had sorted it out.
Well, I have, so thought I would give a run down on the cause & repair.
The split is a result of the shower floor flexing every time you walk into the loo.
Most people step in with their right foot & this puts the weight in the wrong place.
On investigating I found that the tray about one & a half inches either side of the curved drain channel was unsupported, hence the flexing. The shower tray seems to be bonded to the wooden
subfloor with the black mastic Hymer use everywhere but not right up to the edges.
I took the trim panel off from below the door hoping to get access from there to be able to inject mastic between the tray & floor but theres not enough room.
So I decided to attack from the top.
I marked a curve an inch away from the drain channel both inside & outside of the shower & very gingerly drilled a 5mm hole through just the plastic floor,NOT the wood as well. From there I could see there was about a 1mm gap between the tray & subfloor.
So now I'd bitten the bullet, I drilled more & more holes around the curve at 30/ 40 mm centres.
Then starting outside the shower I injected a white silicon mastic into each hole so that it oozed out underneath & left a stub on top.
Then, having drilled at the ends of the split to stop it running any further I pressed down into the drain channel. This opened the split & I injected the mastic into it.with the pressure off the split closed & the eccess mastic was left proud.
After that it was time to inject into the curve inside the shower.This had the affect of supporting the inner part of the floor.
I left the mastic proud overnight to harden & cleaned it up in the morning with a flat chisel.
The result is a floor that doesn't flex, doesn't leak, only shows a ring of small circles where the mastic is trimmed off & cost about a couple of hours of my time & a bit of silicon that I already had. Much better than the £1500 mark I was quoted.
I intended attaching some pictures but still have to sort out how to.
If anyone wants them please pm me with an email address.
Barrie.
our shower try cracked on a 2004, but good luck still in warranty, not enough support on the under side,hymer 680 g, total strip out of bathroom including walls, i would go for surfice repair. john
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Italy
