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Waxoyl is a mixture of white spirit and some kind of solid, waxy substance (it'll probably say what that is on the tin). The more white spirit you mix with it, the more liquid it becomes, until it is easily 'sprayable', 'paintable' or of a suitable consistency for whatever your purpose is. It therefore follows that you shouldn't paint/spray/daub it on anything that is adversely affected by [u:92f64d3c6a]white spirit[/u:92f64d3c6a]. Waxoyl works by the evaporation of the white spirit leaving behind the more solid waxy substance, which has a tendency to 'creep' back when slightly damaged. Used sensibly and with the above borne in mind, I consider it to be one of the finest underbody treatments available. However, you should heed Pete's advice, and before doing anything like re-undersealing, or indeed any mechanical alteration to, the vehicle, ensure that it will not invalidate any warranties. Note that by spraying Waxoyl under a vehicle, it is inevitably going to coat things like CVJ gaiters, suspension snubbers, engine mounts, etc. - all items that are soft, synthetic rubber-type or metalastik materials. If you believe that the Waxoyl could adversely affect any of these, then they should be masked off, and a soft mastic sealer is clearly one such item. Other than that, I believe Waxoyl to be an excellent product. It's even protected the chassis of my barbecue trolley made of cheap steel. It's been left outside for three years and shows no sign of rust, unlike MY 'chassis' which is deteriorating even as we speak!!!
Barry
______________________________________________________________ Barry
Don't use a big word when a diminutive abbreviation will suffice.
The following members of MHF thanked BarryandSue for this posting
Waxoyl is lovely stuff, I use it all the time, and have done for years.
Somewhere above I saw someone mentioning about making it sprayable by adding another liquid to it. Yep you can do that, I’ve added red diesel when and only when I’m running short.
The best way to make Waxoyl suitable for spraying is by heating it. DON’T try putting it directly on a heat source unless you want trouble. The way I do it is by heating it in its own container by placing it (with a loose lid) in a very large saucepan of boiling water a hour or so before I need to spray it. You will find that it goes as thin as water, ideal for spraying, plus its still in its original consistency not ‘watered’ down and needing extra coats. I keep the water simmering by placing the whole lot on a small electric cooker ring out in the yard. By using the water method, you are preventing the Waxoyl from exceeding the temperature of the water (100c), where as with direct heating you have no control over the temperature of the Waxoyl and could quite easily reach its flash point.
Additionally ALWAYS WEAR A BREATHING MASK WHEN SPRAYING
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[b:abb9e1fd06]S teve
aka A very wild....wild camper[/b:abb9e1fd06]
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[URL=http://tinyurl.co.uk/lpak]Click here for my van website![/URL]
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[img:abb9e1fd06]http://www.motorhomefacts.com/alb ums/PostingPhotos-1/VanThumbnail01.gif[/img:abb9e1fd06]
[i:abb9e1fd06]I do like a bit of feed back to my posts please[/i:abb9e1fd06]
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______________________________________________________________ Steve
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That's brilliant, Steve. I've used Waxoyl for years, and I never thought of warming it. Excellent advice. Do they say that on the tin, by the way? If they do, I must've missed it - pillock!
Barry
______________________________________________________________ Barry
Don't use a big word when a diminutive abbreviation will suffice.
The following members of MHF thanked BarryandSue for this posting
I’m a typical bloke. I only read the destructions when things don’t work, so haven’t got a clue what it says on the tin. May have read the tin 30 years or so ago, but not recently.
The secondary heating method is what was used for some of the fish bone glues, but I’ve used it for all sorts of things.
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[b:7bb560 1fcb]Steve
aka A very wild....wild camper[/b:7bb5601fcb]
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[URL=http://tinyurl.co.uk/lpak]Click here for my van website![/URL]
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[img:7bb5601fcb]http://www.motorhomefacts.com/alb ums/PostingPhotos-1/VanThumbnail01.gif[/img:7bb5601fcb]
[i:7bb5601fcb]I do like a bit of feed back to my posts please[/i:7bb5601fcb]
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______________________________________________________________ Steve
The following members of MHF thanked EOR for this posting
Yes! As I wrote that post, I thought to myself "I must've read the instructions once" and that must've been all of 30 years ago! And I couldn't be arsed to go out to the garage and see for myself.
As an aside, a friend of mine (who shall remain nameless) "warmed" an aerosol to get a finer finish on something he was doing. Distracted, he left it for a while, and on hearing the explosion returned to the kitchen. He was lucky to be able to clean the kitchen as well as he did over the course of the next [u:593c36f750]week[/u:593c36f750], and is still finding the odd spot of silver grey paint, three years later! So careful warming is the name of the game, and NOT aerosols. How he got away with warming aerosols for so long beats me - he'd been doing this for years!
______________________________________________________________ Barry
Don't use a big word when a diminutive abbreviation will suffice.
The following members of MHF thanked BarryandSue for this posting
From another relative newbie, take great care of the leisure battery if you have one. After its maiden voyage our motorhome didn't get out for a while, and this resulted in the battery fully discharging and left it useless. Moral - either take the van out regularly, long enough for the battery to charge, or invest in a charger and regularly top up the battery!!
The following members of MHF thanked martinpaul for this posting
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