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Thanks for the input. Yes I regularly grease the inputs on the Aframe and check the overrun by slowly reversing the MH while connected and get the wife to watch the foot brake, and ensure the bungee pulls the pedal back up.
If the master cylinder did stick its ironic it has never happened while driving some 13000 miles not being connected to the MH.
Kind regards
______________________________________________________________ Richard
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If the master cylinder did stick its ironic it has never happened while driving some 13000 miles not being connected to the MH.
It is almost definately not a brake issue IMO. The brakes would been very hot. They would be smoking all round. On your 2 mile drive you would have noticed, either still stuck on or severe brake fade/no brakes, excessive brake travel. Did you check the oil levels? Did you have the inner CV joint replaced or a drive shaft?
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The amount of heat required to damage the hubs the way you describe could IMO only be generated from sticking brakes.. is it possible that the overrun on the A frame stuck on, even very slightly ? Either that or as you suggest a sticking master cylinder. Either way, the heat from the discs would travel up the shafts and quite possibly have damaged the oil seals on the gear box...
Have you inspected and or tested the A frame over run mechanism .. ?
Good luck Jim
Jim even this is a contradiction. If you think how the overrun works.
Its the compression which applies the brakes. When the the towing vehicle then starts to accelerate again the drawbar is pulled out again. If the brakes are stuck on, this action will be aided by the drag of the car aqnd the brakes should release. The cause is unlikely to be the A-frame. More like the cars brakes stuck on and would not release. If this is the case what caused them to stick on? Overheating in the first place resulting from prolonged braking but I have only ever experienced this on long downhill gradients with a caravan and certainly not in Norfolk.
I think possibly the brakes were worn with the result even on ordinary braking circumstances they overheated and then stuck???
peedee
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On getting home and I noticed there was a 3" molten hole in the centre of the plastic hub cap (wheel trim) on the drivers side and on the passenger side it was starting to melt.
On getting home, starting to melt? If brakes were stuck on, it should have been very obvious?
Quote:
I was aware of a bearing type howl after about 2 miles. There was no adverse steering or brake pulling problems whilst driving.
After 2 miles a "howl" not a grinding noise and no pulling problems?
Wheel bearings or CV joints?
Dennis
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After 2 miles a "howl" not a grinding noise and no pulling problems?
Wheel bearings or CV joints?
Dennis
I ruled out bearings and joints as I thought it highly unlikely that both sides would fail simultaneously .. the only common factor I can see is the braking system ..
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The Citroen C2 is a manual 1.1 petrol engine 17595miles and a full service history. No problems and work up to this point in time.
The non Citroen part was the A Frame bracket, electrics and overun cable. Fitted by the A Frame supplier. All had worked well in some 5000 miles of towing.
The bearing howl I described was the high pitch whine of a bearing in distress. Yes I was aware of this at one part of the 10 mile non towing journey the next day. So IMO the fault was bearing and not brakes as there was no obvious steering or braking feeling (indication)
Kind regards
______________________________________________________________ Richard
If something is hard to do, itīs
"like trying to herd cats."
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I ruled out bearings and joints as I thought it highly unlikely that both sides would fail simultaneously .. the only common factor I can see is the braking system
I guess it's possible that a sticking master cylinder would cause sufficient heat in the brake discs to melt the grease in the wheel bearings.
Thus both wheel bearings would fail simultaneously as a result of a braking system fault.
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So IMO the fault was bearing and not brakes as there was no obvious steering or braking feeling (indication)
Hi Richard.
Strange one this. That was my line of thinking but ScotJimland has a good point
Quote:
I ruled out bearings and joints as I thought it highly unlikely that both sides would fail simultaneously ..
I would still argue the odds with the stealer. As the non genuine part cannot be positively and directly linked to that part. Use your past 5000 miles as evidence and quote others doing the same thing without problem on same/similar cars. I have towed a Smart for over 10,000 miles and a Matiz for over 2000 miles without any problems.
Plus the fault did NOT occur whilst the non genuine part was in use.
Dennis
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