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I would have expected an inductive amp clamp meter to measure A.C. only You need a hall effect A.C./D.C. clamp meter and they seem to be unreasonably expensive for a sensitivity of 10mA.
Safariboy
The following members of MHF thanked safariboy for this posting
Perhaps Kath or Peter from Swift may help us. I'm not sure if they read all posts or just the ones relating to Swift. Should we place a post under the Swift asking the question??
I have a pfd file here that was sent to me by Swift.
TR0008 - 2008 Reverse Camera Ignition Supply.pdf
Apparently some reversing cameras were wired to a non switched fuse, not to one that is isolated by the ignition switch. The above file explains what to do to move the camera to a switched supply that is only on with ignition in the ON position.
I am booked in with VanBitz who are fitting a Camos dome for me, they are also fitting a Battery Master, so with the above fix done at the same time, fingers crossed all will be well by this time next week.
The following members of MHF thanked some-where-in-oxford for this posting
Perhaps Kath or Peter from Swift may help us. I'm not sure if they read all posts or just the ones relating to Swift. Should we place a post under the Swift asking the question??
I have a pfd file here that was sent to me by Swift.
TR0008 - 2008 Reverse Camera Ignition Supply.pdf
Apparently some reversing cameras were wired to a non switched fuse, not to one that is isolated by the ignition switch. The above file explains what to do to move the camera to a switched supply that is only on with ignition in the ON position.
I am booked in with VanBitz who are fitting a Camos dome for me, they are also fitting a Battery Master, so with the above fix done at the same time, fingers crossed all will be well by this time next week.
Hi SWO,
Any chance you could stick a link on here so we could see the wiring diagram please. The diagram Kath sent me only shows the cables connected with the links to the stereo and reers to a perminant live the same as the live which feeds the pillar spot lights in the cab.
Thanks,
Stewart
The following members of MHF thanked stewartwebr for this posting
Perhaps Kath or Peter from Swift may help us. I'm not sure if they read all posts or just the ones relating to Swift. Should we place a post under the Swift asking the question??
.
Hi SWO,
Any chance you could stick a link on here so we could see the wiring diagram please. The diagram Kath sent me only shows the cables connected with the links to the stereo and reers to a perminant live the same as the live which feeds the pillar spot lights in the cab.
Thanks,
Stewart
I have a pfd file here that was sent to me by Swift.
TR0008 - 2008 Reverse Camera Ignition Supply.pdf
Apparently some reversing cameras were wired to a non switched fuse, not to one that is isolated by the ignition switch.
The file explains what to do to move the camera to a switched supply that is only on with ignition in the ON position.
I am booked in with VanBitz who are fitting a Camos dome for me, they are also fitting a Battery Master, so with the above fix done at the same time, fingers crossed all will be well by this time next week.
The following members of MHF thanked some-where-in-oxford for this posting
On our 2006 camper, I found that the Cd / Radio had been wired incorrectly, with the radio not switching off on the ignition key as it should. This caused my engine battery to run flat over a 2 week period. I have re-wired it correctly since and no problems whatsoever. It is easy to check. Turn on the radio with the ignition in the ON position. Turn off the ignition and remove the key and the radio should power off. If not, then the ignition sense wire is incorrectly wired to the constant live from the battery. This will definitly drain your battery.
There is a relay between the engine and house battery that sometimes sticks on. This may cause problems in the event that something is left on in the camper.
Ensure that your charger is correctly set to your battery type. Mine was incorrectly set to Lead / Gel when the battery was Lead / Acid. This will toast a Lead / Gel battery in no time. There is normally a tiny dip switch on these units to specify the battery type in use.
Hope this is of some help.
The following members of MHF thanked Fourwinns for this posting
On our 2006 camper, I found that the Cd / Radio had been wired incorrectly, with the radio not switching off on the ignition key as it should. This caused my engine battery to run flat over a 2 week period. I have re-wired it correctly since and no problems whatsoever. It is easy to check. Turn on the radio with the ignition in the ON position. Turn off the ignition and remove the key and the radio should power off. If not, then the ignition sense wire is incorrectly wired to the constant live from the battery. This will definitly drain your battery.
There is a relay between the engine and house battery that sometimes sticks on. This may cause problems in the event that something is left on in the camper.
Ensure that your charger is correctly set to your battery type. Mine was incorrectly set to Lead / Gel when the battery was Lead / Acid. This will toast a Lead / Gel battery in no time. There is normally a tiny dip switch on these units to specify the battery type in use.
Hope this is of some help.
I always remove the front of the radio when parked up, would it still draw some charge if wired incorrectly?
The following members of MHF thanked some-where-in-oxford for this posting
Probably not to the same degree but it would very much depend on the unit installed. Every unit I have ever fitted has warned that battery drain will occur if the units are wired solely to a permanent live.
The following members of MHF thanked Fourwinns for this posting
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