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have i read somewhere or am i dreaming this that it is advisable not to use levelling devices under the rear wheels, something to do with them being rigid!!
ie only run your front wheels up blocks, which isnt always easy when the best view is the other way or it means siting your van door to door with the van next to you, not good if there isnt much space and they have children(!)
Never heard that one before that said it usually is my fronts but for the last 4 days I have had one on my right rear corner.
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why would being rigid make any difference? I guess you mean cos it's a beam axle?
It makes no more difference than parking your van on uneven ground. ramps are to compensate and get you level
I either drive forward on to chocks at the front. I can't reverse on to them at the front because of my mud flaps.
Or I drive or reverse on to chocks at the back. I do prefer to reverse on, as I then have some momentum when coming off, especially on wet grass.
I do prefer not to use chocks as it raises the entry step of our low chassis and we are happy with a slight slope either way anyhow.
The only issue I've come across involved a chock cracking because it had been used on gravel. Fiamma claimed they should not be used directly on gravel!! Oh sugar!!
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I learnt a lesson recently when levelling on grass.
Dont level chocks on 1 front 1 back on the same side.
My Peugeot Boxer is front wheel drive so while the front wheel had traction on the chock my right front was on the grass...no traction....result rt wheel stuck in mud !!!
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I learnt a lesson recently when levelling on grass. Dont level chocks on 1 front 1 back on the same side. My Peugeot Boxer is front wheel drive so while the front wheel had traction on the chock my right front was on the grass...no traction....result rt wheel stuck in mud !!!
Yep the diff let the wheel on the grass spin while providing no power to the wheel on the chock but that will not happen to me as I don't use bought chocks that have flat or indented sections that the wheel rests on ... I prefer my home made wooden ones resting on wood blocks adjusted to the height that I need. It does mean that I have to leave the van in gear and apply the handbrake to stay on the ramps and I often put a block as a chock behind the other wheels... some say this puts a strain on the brakes or gearbox but really it is no different to parking on a hill
Then when setting up I always try to reverse onto these ramps as that allows me to roll off when I am ready to move away.... and if the ground is soft or has become soft while parked up I don't stop until I reach better ground... if it is really soft I put down grip tracks to drive off over.
Mike
______________________________________________________________ When confronted by a problem, you can solve it easily by reducing it to the question, "How would the Lone Ranger have handled this?"
I have been used to driving front wheels up onto chocks, but now rethinking.
Last year, during a particuarly wet day, arrived in pouring rain on grass site and needed front chocks.
Drove on them as usual, but when applying brakes, tyre lost grip and slipped off the chocks, causing them to rise up and wedge behind wheels and tapered ends firmly wedged into wheel arches.
What a palaver getting them out. Spade would not budge them.
Ended up with borrowed trolley jack to lift body clear enough to force chocks clear.
Bearing in mind the bodywork now was obstructing the jacking point !
Now trying to reverse onto chocks, as sliding off in similar situation will only allow movement up into front of wheel arch, and access to jacking point, if needed, is not obstructed by bodywork.
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