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It all depends what year it is.
The new model 4 series which just came out this year has the option of a winter pack.
Otherwise, if it's a older van, I don't think it will be fully winterised.
______________________________________________________________ Breathe in, breathe out, move on
"Winterised" is not a digital parameter - i.e. it's not a "yes it is, no it isn't" kind of thing.
All vans are winterised to a certain extent. They have insulation and heating. How efficient they are at keeping you warm is a different matter. Also, you need to think about the fresh and grey water tanks. Some just hang below the van, and are open to freezing. Some are in a double floor. Our fresh water tank is under a sofa inside the van, so safe from freezing. The grey water is open to the elements. As Hezbez says, you can buy winter packs which will heat the two tanks to stop them freezing, if they're susceptible.
Although the Swift website states it's OK for -15C, you need to find out exactly what this means. It's strange to say that it meets this 'standard', if you then have to buy an optional winter pack to stop your tanks freezing.
I'll stick my head above the parapet and say that the vast majority of UK vans are not built with prelonged use in sub zero conditions in mind except maybe a very few of the top range models. I think the majority would struggle at or around -15c for extended periods.
That is not to say that you can't enjoy a winter holiday in these vans, you just need a bit of ingenuity.
We used to have an Autosleeper Nuevo which was woefully equipped for winter conditions, but that didn't stop us having some great times down in the Alpine areas, it just wasn't as easy as it is with a properly equipped van and a few 'mods' were required to prevent freezing.
I will use my own van as an example. It is classed as grade three insulation. This means that with an outside temperature of -15 degrees C, the van should maintain an internal temperature of +20 degrees C, with the heating on of course.
Now, the weak spots - the fresh and waste water tanks are partially underslung, and also, some drain pipes are partially exposed. During the very cold winter where we had -17 and worse, my van was fine but I had the tank heaters switched on. I left the waste drain tap open at all times and waste went straight into the humble bucket. Also, I put a glass of salt water down the sinks every night to prevent residual water freezing in the pipes. The last winter 2009-2010 was the coldest I have ever experienced.
I will add that the heating, when on a full pelt, would have probably seen the van at about +30, despite being -17 outside.
The "insulation grades" refer to the heating/heat retention capabilities as far as I am aware.
Winterised in my mind is a van where all pipes, tanks and so on are inside the vehicle, with warm air pipes close by. A Dethleffs 7871-2 for example springs to mind.
Russell
______________________________________________________________ Our long trip around Europe - blog now online at www.swift-kontiki.co.uk
This is the specification for the winterisation grades:
EN 1646-1 for heating and thermal insulation, the highest is Grade 3
CLASSIFICATION of THERMAL INSULATION and HEATING
Grade 3. A caravan including windows, doors and rooflights
in which the average thermal transmittance (U) of the
elements of construction shall not exceed 1.2W/(m2K).
An average temperature difference of at least 35K between
inside and outside temperatures shall be achieved when the
outside temperature is -15C.
Precautions shall be taken to ensure that the fresh water
supply can be filled at the end of the stabilising time of
one hour according to Annexe M. Then the fresh water service
shall operate when the outside temperature is -15C.
..... the average thermal transmittance coefficient (U) shall
be calculated in accordance with Annexe L or, for grades 2
and 3, tested in accordance with the method of test given in
Annexe M, according to the manufacturer's choice.
In the European standard it says regarding thermal insulation:
‘Thermal insulation will be classified using three grades, the manufacturer must calculate the average ‘U’ value for the product and this will determine the grade. The NCC Certificate of Approval will clearly indicate the grade to which the product will be certificated. Those manufacturers seeking grade 3 classification (the highest) will need to ensure the water system will still operate when the outside temperature is –15 degrees C’.
Category 2:
The heating system must be able to warm up the interior from outside temperature to 20 degrees C within 2 hours at an outside temperature of 0 degrees C.
Category 3:
The heating system must be able to warm up the interior from outside temperature to 20 degrees C within 2 hours at an outside temperature of -10 degrees C. In addition it must be possible after one hour to fill and use the water system and the heating must keep it frost free.
The key thing is highlighted:
Those manufacturers seeking grade 3 classification (the highest) will need to ensure the water system will still operate when the outside temperature is –15 degrees C’.
So the need to buy a "winterisation pack" is a nonsense - either it works and complies with category 3, or it doesn't. That seems to imply that it doesn't comply with category 3.
However, having said that, there aren't many that would comply. If it's important to you, you will need to look at those motorhomes with a double floor, which has the tanks AND THE PIPES in a heated underfloor area.
thanks for the replys,i must admit that i do feel it little bit deflated, that after spending all that money on a motorhome(may 2010) i might not be able to have a skiing hol,without worrying whether the motormome will freeze up.
[align=justify]Hi, very informative response from"geraldandannie" on winterisation classifications however can anyone tell me if a Dethleffs Esprit I 7870 is a cat 3 winterised van as standard? It's a double floored vehicle. The dealer says it is cat 3 but also says it does not have any tank heaters! is it possible to be cat 3 winterised without tank heaters?
As long as the double floor area is heated by your blown air heating (or whatever other heating system you use), you will be OK. As long as you keep the heating on of course.
My motorhome as a similar design and you can see the heating pipes in the area round the tanks.
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France
i have heard that motorhomes are ok for -15, but i want to be sure 
Waving in memory of Peter and Fiona
Fighting with Mavis´s MESO WARRIORS 
i might not be able to have a skiing hol,without worrying whether the motormome will freeze up.
winterisation CAT £
