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Motorhome Facts :: View topic - solar panel instalation to fibreglass van roof
Motorhome Solar Panels
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 solar panel instalation to fibreglass van roof
879300 Post Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:13 pm Thank this member for this postReply with quote Back To Top

sew  


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Hi everyone,
I just bought 120w monocrystal solar panel for ma vw transporter high top van,
roof is made from fibre glass, any idea how to instal the panel to that type of roof to have solid instalation?
sikaflex 512? is it strong enough?


thanks for any ideas

Sew
 
879305 Post Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:16 pm Thank this member for this postReply with quote Back To Top

gnscloz Subscriber 28/04/2013 


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yes pretty much any sikkaflex will hold it 512 for def use loads at work got that and nothing else holding dome on Shocked
 
879315 Post Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:19 pm Thank this member for this postReply with quote Back To Top

sew  


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thanks Very Happy
 
879317 Post Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:22 pm Thank this member for this postReply with quote Back To Top

gnscloz Subscriber 28/04/2013 


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sew wrote:
thanks Very Happy


check date on tube shelf life terrible and once open its useless within week
 
879320 Post Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:26 pm Thank this member for this postReply with quote Back To Top

sew  


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ok.
do i need to leave some gap between roof and panel for ventylation?
 
879325 Post Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:33 pm Thank this member for this postReply with quote Back To Top

gnscloz Subscriber 28/04/2013 


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[quote="sew"]ok.
do i need to leave some gap between roof and panel for ventylation?[/quot

personally i would get or make some brackets to leave a gap for ventilation, but have never personally fitted solar panel, someone will answer your question if you hang on a bit
 
879336 Post Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:51 pm Thank this member for this postReply with quote Back To Top

philoaks Subscriber 14/09/2012 


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sew wrote:
ok.
do i need to leave some gap between roof and panel for ventylation?


The ready made ones you can buy lift the panel 32mm clear off the roof to allow for ventilation. I made up my own brackets from an aluminium extrusion and used the same sort of clearance.
 
879359 Post Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 10:13 pm Thank this member for this postReply with quote Back To Top

davesport Subscriber 07/02/2013 


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Yes you need to leave a gap. 25 mm around the edges should be sufficient. At their simplest the brackets should be alloy angle riveted or bolted throught the panel frames allowing the standoff from the roof. Put the panel complete with brackets on the roof & mark out the footprint of the brackets on the roof. Clean footprint area & the brackets & prime using Sika primer. Leave to dry & then apply the Sika adhesive to everything. I put small temporary blocks of wood under may panel at this stage to ensure that the I retained a 2-3 mm layer of adhesive between the brackets & the roof. Remove all surplus adhesive & allow the remainder to set. It's temperature sensitive & is activated by atmospheric moisture. IE it'll go of quicker on a warm humid day.

The saying "sticks like s**t" was made for Sika adhesives. Keep some rags handy Smile

D.
 
879380 Post Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 10:41 pm Thank this member for this postReply with quote Back To Top

CliveMott Subscriber 17/03/2013 


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Yes its important that there is a good air gap beneath the panel to cool the underside and you might as well lift the panel sufficiently to be able to clean beneath it.

C.
 
880559 Post Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 7:01 pm Thank this member for this postReply with quote Back To Top

sew  


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thanks guys,
can i use galvanized brackets instead of alluminium ones?
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