[bub]

Hi all,

Glad to join this forum, looks really interesting!

The one annoying issue that brings me here is that my battery in the livable area is not charging while driving. In Hymer this goes through the electroblock, in my case EB101. I just try to find out if there is a fuse related to the dynamo D+ entry but it's all German, Zusatz-Ladegerat sounds like it but translates as additional charger so i don't think it's the one
Next action i could think about is taking this D+ connector off and see if there is some current when the engine is running but then again, why this connector has 4/5 wires? I would expect 2 wires is enough to pass DC,confusing!

Voila, so my introduction is immediately a question, that's how we join mostly, isn't it?

Thanks and nice to meet you all!

bub

 

[raynipper]

Hi and welcome. Will be interesting to see what answers you get here.

Ray.

 

[rayc]

Any help? Schematic drawing on page 16. Note that the D+ input is on Block 2 pin 3 and should be connected via an external 2A fuse. Manual Schaudt Elektroblock EBL 101 C (page 1 of 16) (English) [ Block 2 has other functions in addition to D+ signal so explains the 5 pins].
Is anything else related to the use of the D+ signal working e.g. fridge on 12v, step retraction on engine start up etc?
Is the D+ input on Block 2 pin 3 going to battery positive when the engine is running?

 

[Scotjimland]

On the EBL , check multi-plug 3 - Connections for refrigerator power supply, D+ and sensor/control line

.. switch off the EBL and pull the plug , the pins are prone to burning , thats the bad news, the good news is they are easily replaced.. see attached.
If you don't have the manual for Electrobloc 101 , , send me your email and I can supply or download from the Schaudt

https://www.schaudt.gmbh

 

[bub]

Is anything else related to the use of the D+ signal working e.g. fridge on 12v, step retraction on engine start up etc?
Is the D+ input on Block 2 pin 3 going to battery positive when the engine is running?

Okay, that's a great remark, i was also wondering why the fridge doesn't do anything on 12V so that's related? I don't know what is this step retraction and Google is not really giving me info on that. I will try to get my hands on a multimeter to test pin 3 on block 2, you guys are amazing!
Thanks!

 

[erneboy]

You are indeed amazing, just as bub says. Great answers, speedy and comprehensive.

 

[rayc]

Okay, that's a great remark, i was also wondering why the fridge doesn't do anything on 12V so that's related? I don't know what is this step retraction and Google is not really giving me info on that. I will try to get my hands on a multimeter to test pin 3 on block 2, you guys are amazing!
Thanks!

Step retraction is when on engine start up the habitation door step automatically retracts [assuming you have one of course]. D+ can also be used similarly to lower a satellite dish on engine start up.

 

[bub]

Step retraction is when on engine start up the habitation door step automatically retracts [assuming you have one of course]. D+ can also be used similarly to lower a satellite dish on engine start up.

Thanks for clearing that up, step retraction is not happening so nothing from that Block 2 is working.

I finally got my hands on a multimeter but looking at the scheme of the EBL101 i am confused

The scheme for Block 2 looks like this:
5 - 2A + sensor living area battery
2 - Negative sensor living area battery
1 - 20A + Starter batt. for refrigerator*
3 - 2A D+ input
4 - Negative starter battery for refrigerator*

Is the pin marked '1' on Block 2 now the number 1 in that scheme, i.c. the starter batt. for refrigerator?

This would mean that the one i want to test (D+) is actually the 4th physical pin on the block?

And truly sorry but even after knowing the exact pin to test i will have one more question:

With the multimeter on a 20V DC test, i will then know where to put my "red + wire" but where will i put my "black - wire"?

Thanking you so much!
bub

 

[jiwawa]

Bump!