MOT Advice

1571 Views 37 Replies 9 Participants Last post by barryd, 2 mo ago

barryd

Discussion Starter · 2 mo ago

Hank the Tank failed its MOT today but not by much. The major fails turned out to be a lose bolt on the offside rear shocker which I had someone try to tighten but its seized. Its going back in on Monday be to cut off and replaced but it needs to go on the ramp for that. The only other fails were to do with the rear lights which were all blooming working when I set off this morning. They really could do with replacing but God knows where ill get them from. They are working again now but whether they will be by Monday or not when it gets fixed and retested who knows?

Anything else on this list do you think I should get done imminently?

Repair immediately (major defects):
Nearside Stop lamp(s) not working (4.3.1 (a) (ii))
Rear fog lamp not working (4.5.1 (a) (ii))
Offside Rear Shock absorbers insecurely attached upper mount (5.3.2 (a) (i))

Repair as soon as possible (minor defects):
Nearside Registration plate lamp inoperative in the case of multiple lamps or light sources (4.7.1 (b) (i))
Nearside Steering rack gaiter damaged or deteriorated, but preventing the ingress of dirt (2.1.3 (g) (i))
Nearside Inner Drive shaft joint constant velocity boot severely deteriorated (6.1.7 (g) (i))

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
Offside Front Seat belt slightly damaged (7.1.2 (b) (i))
Nearside Rear Lower Shock absorbers has a slightly worn bush (5.3.2 (c))
Front Brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened both corroded (1.1.14 (a) (ii))
both rear wheel arches corroded
both front shockers corroded, upper
long handbrake travel
Rear Service brake fluctuating, but not excessively both (1.2.1 (e))

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raynipper

· #2 · 2 mo ago

We seem to be at the same point over and over again Baz. About time it went.
Sadly our old Golf has to go the same way.

Ray.

Penquin

· #3 · 2 mo ago

AFAIK several of those things, like the gaiters mentioned, require other, larger dismantling and of course, reassembly.

Both rear shocks would have to come off in order to address the bolt and the bush issue, although it could be argued that if the bolt IS seized, how can it be described as loose ? I am not a mechanic as you can tell.
Handbrake travel could be stretched cable, or worn brakes, brake pads need correction before disc is damaged.

Corrosion in rear wheel arches needs new metal welded in, on front shocks might mean new shocks.
Lights failed is likely to be a negative fault (aka earth !), loose connection or rust likely. Or blown bulb - those are easy and cheap to repair.

The costs will mount up but in very many respects Hank is in good condition for his age but just beginning to show his age…..

Rock and hard place / repair or not ?

Same as last year when the work required was extensive and expensive, but you made great use of Hank last summer. I suspect this years bill will be less and you will get yet more pleasure. If you sell Hank, the price drop will be large unless repaired first. Obviously not main dealer repairs, but a small independent garage like you use will get the tings done reliably I am sure.

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barryd

Discussion Starter · #4 · 2 mo ago

Thanks.

According to the mechanic that looked at the lose bolt on the rear shock he reckons its a twenty minute job. Mind you it took them 45 minutes to get the bulbs working. The problem with them I think is the assembly and contacts. They are on their last legs. I may be able to fix them myself long term. The rear arches I know about. I think ill get them done at some point before the year is out. They were bodged a couple of years ago when it had all that work done. They werent an MOT failure though.

Its was the Steering rack gaitor and drive shaft joint constant velocity boot that concerned me. I have no idea what they are of course

eurajohn

· #5 · 2 mo ago

barryd said:
Its was the Steering rack gaitor and drive shaft joint constant velocity boot that concerned me. I have no idea what they are of course

Barry, get the rack gaiter and the CV joint boot done, don't let them talk you in to the "fit in place" ones make sure they are the solid ones that require some disassembly and reassembly, neither are a difficult or long job.

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nicholsong

· #6 · 2 mo ago

Barry

Bad luck although I suppose it is likely to happen to any vehicle at that age, which worries me now that our Arto has reached 20 years.

The only support I can give you is that I am as clueless as you on some of the items, but you are getting some on here.

Geoff

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barryd

Discussion Starter · #7 · 2 mo ago

eurajohn said:
Barry, get the rack gaiter and the CV joint boot done, don't let them talk you in to the "fit in place" ones make sure they are the solid ones that require some disassembly and reassembly, neither are a difficult or long job.

Thanks. I was hoping you might see this. Ive just mentioned this to the guys that are doing the retest and sorting out the shocker bolt on Monday and he reckons they wont have time to do the Gaiter and CV joint as it will probably need a new drive shaft but they will have a look. As long as they get it through its test I can get the other bits done later I guess. This is the issue I always have. Nobody seems keen or has the time to do the flipping work. More than happy to pay for it, its just getting someone to do it!

erneboy

· #8 · 2 mo ago

New driveshaft? Not unles the old one is showing signs of wear.

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eurajohn

· #9 · 2 mo ago

Barry, for a mechanic changing a CV boot is a straightforward task, if a bit of an ache, it is best done on the bench (although is perfectly do-able in situ) so does need the removal of shaft, which if the right hand one does have added complication of a support bearing.
Once the wheel, hub centre nut, brake parts, top and bottom ball joints are removed the hub can be separated from the CV joint spline, the CV will then need to be manoeuvred into the correct position to get the outer to separate from the shaft and bearing housing, that done the bearing centre can be removed from shaft and the old boot removed and new one fitted, then reassembly is reverse of taking it apart.
Many bodgers will advocate fitting a glue up boot, don't do it they have a very short life.
The steering rack gaiter is an easier job, wheel off split track rod end from hub, unscrew track rod end after marking it's exact position on threaded shaft, remove old fit new and put the rest back together.

Reactions: 3

H1-GBV

· #10 · 2 mo ago

My old Renault Trafic used to shed CV joints and wheel bearing on a regular basis. Rubber boots used to split and repairs with rubber patches never worked.

I can’t remember WHY but I used to jack the wheel up and tie rope round the spring to keep it compressed. Eventually I got three C clips made to fasten across the coils: safety first (or probably fifth). I became so adept that I could go to the scrapyard on Saturday morning, find and disassemble a drive shaft, bring it home and refit it in the afternoon.

We drove to Coventry for my daughter’s 21st birthday and I felt the wheel starting to wobble at Northampton. Given the choice of turning round and possibly not getting home, we pushed onward, had a good day in the Midlands and got back to hers with the front wheel at about 20degrees off vertical. I rang RAC and explained the situation but they insisted on sending a man in a little van rather than the rescue truck which I said was needed. He was very impressed that I’d managed to drive it. Eventually we got home around midnight.

I wouldn’t do it now. Good luck with your repairs.

Gordon

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Malshadow

· #11 · 2 mo ago

Unfortunately with a skill shortage in vehicle repair and labour prices high it is now common for repair shops to replace rather than repair, pulling a drive shaft out losing the gearbox oil, whilst disassemble reassembling the joint on the driveshaft to replace the gaiter, rather than pull out the drive shaft, wack in the replacement which will have a manufactures guarantee is a far less labour intensive procedure the choice will depend on your chosen repairer who should explain that to you, up to a few years ago it was common for us in the repair industry to replace a bottom ball joint but it became common practice to replace the whole bottom suspension arm unfortunately time is money, your steering rack gaiter replacement should be done with the driveshaft job as luck should have it both on the nearside, as for your Mot i have seen what we would call a shopping list for Mot repairs i know first hand i have issued those lists, you will have your 12 month ticket soon knowing your vehicle is roadworthy £ 40.00 to have your vehicle checked is not a lot of money good luck remember the song three wheels on my wagon

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barryd

Discussion Starter · #12 · 2 mo ago

Thanks all. Will see what they say on Monday. Ive not used this garage before for repairs. The guy I found by recommendation on Newton Aycliffe Ind Est two years ago when it needed all that welding uses them for MOTs as they are near each other and have a relationship but he himself is unable to do this work right now so this lot are doing it. Newton Aycliffe They have the space and the 6ton ramps but even they dont have time right now to do the full list. My guy reckons they are not cheap mind.

I would rather get it all done to be honest its just a matter of when and by who.

Malshadow

· #13 · 2 mo ago

Look after your broom and it will look after you, Triggers immortal words.

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barryd

Discussion Starter · #14 · 2 mo ago

Malshadow said:
Look after your broom and it will look after you, Triggers immortal words.

Easier said than done when nobody seems to want to work on said broom! Im giving myself more time next year. MOT runs out 8th April. I assumed two weeks which was when I set the ball rolling would be enough but its not really. Cutting it fine.

nicholsong

· #15 · 2 mo ago

Malshadow said:
Look after your broom and it will look after you, Triggers immortal words.

Does that entail changing the head one year and the handle the next, then repeat in alternate years?

If so when should one get a new broom?

Just ask'in

Malshadow

· #16 · 2 mo ago

Mot test can be performed a calendar month before the expiry date without losing that month so actually it is possible to have a new test certificate with 13months less the test day, broom handles and the head can be changed at any time preferably when your partner has a job in hand which doesn't take your fancy

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barryd

Discussion Starter · #17 · 2 mo ago

Hank the Tank is through its test but looking at the history they have only done the rear shocker (The lights we fixed on Friday).

I dropped it off this morning. Will pick it up in the morning. I did ask them to look at the minor defects listed but it looks like they haven't. Will know more in the morning. Im just wondering if these will be outside jobs that maybe could be done by my local mechanic. Its a right PIA taking it all the way to Newton Aycliffe. First trip is probably just Flamborough 100 miles away so it may be ok until after that.

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erneboy

· #18 · 2 mo ago

All simple jobs, if people want to do them Baz.

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barryd

Discussion Starter · #19 · 2 mo ago

"If" people want to do them indeed or if you can get the parts. Got the van back just now. They haven't looked at the steering rack gaitor or the drive shaft velocity boot but its through its test. £50 for the test and £25 to sort out the loose rear shock so a small bill this year (So far). The guy still insists that its often just as easy and a good idea to fit a new drive shaft but also said assuming you can find the parts. So I guess my next task is to find exactly what parts are required myself. Always a PIA as I have no idea what I am looking for really. Then ill need to find someone to fit them. I presume it will need to be up on a ramp for this kind of work?

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nicholsong

· #20 · 2 mo ago

barryd said:
"If" people want to do them indeed or if you can get the parts. Got the van back just now. They haven't looked at the steering rack gaitor or the drive shaft velocity boot but its through its test. £50 for the test and £25 to sort out the loose rear shock so a small bill this year (So far). The guy still insists that its often just as easy and a good idea to fit a new drive shaft but also said assuming you can find the parts. So I guess my next task is to find exactly what parts are required myself. Always a PIA as I have no idea what I am looking for really. Then ill need to find someone to fit them. I presume it will need to be up on a ramp for this kind of work?

Or a garage with a pit - there are ones that do trucks, coaches etc. which do not have lifts for that sort of vehicle. Even my old MOT-only place did my MH over a pit as they also do coaches. Same here for my 'MOT' in Poland, where their pit stretches the length big enough to fit in two lorries at once.

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