Kev-n- liz
I cant pick up the pictures and its driving me mad
Aldra
I cant pick up the pictures and its driving me mad
Aldra
Pictures of my self build at last
I started last weekend, but got held up because my starter motor packed up, I've just finished replacing it, time to re-fit starter 10 minutes, time to refit the plastic front end 1 whole day, because every single fastener was rusted solid and despite 2 days of WD40 remained so, I had to drill the more visible ones out, but the rest just kept spinning as there isn't enough head to get a grip on, if it'd been metal behind the plastic I could perhaps have welded a nut to each one, but it's all plastic.
Take my advice get out there with a tub of copper grease and do all of them, as even if you don't do your own mucky necking you'll have to pay someone so you still save.
For build pics see link in my signature.
Kev.
Beware VS
💩
Take my advice get out there with a tub of copper grease and do all of them, as even if you don't do your own mucky necking you'll have to pay someone so you still save.
For build pics see link in my signature.
Kev.
Beware VS
💩41 - 60 of 338 Posts
Can you explain what happens when you try.aldra said:Kev-n- liz
I cant pick up the pictures and its driving me mad
Aldra
Here's the bare link
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/yk0myzgzuz1m7n8/-uM2RnG4CU
You're not missing much yet
Working OK at 08.20.
Peter
Peter
got it now kev
gosh you are so clever
aldra
gosh you are so clever
aldra
From the way you are talking, it sounds as if you feel the work is taking a bit too long and a hint of impatience is creeping in. Have a couple of days off and get a second wind.
You are doing a fantastic job and the end result will, I am sure, be worth all of the effort.
You are a star and like others, I cannot wait to see the next batch of pictures enabling me to re-live my own puny efforts at building a motorhome. Something I look back on with great pleasure.
Alan
p.s. I eventually sold mine with a good profit after many happy travels.
You are doing a fantastic job and the end result will, I am sure, be worth all of the effort.
You are a star and like others, I cannot wait to see the next batch of pictures enabling me to re-live my own puny efforts at building a motorhome. Something I look back on with great pleasure.
Alan
p.s. I eventually sold mine with a good profit after many happy travels.
Are you on the right thread, you cannot be talking a bout mealdra said:got it now kev
gosh you are so clever
aldra
definitely on the right thread Kev
Its looking good, a lot of hard work but it will be brilliant when you finish it
Aldra
Its looking good, a lot of hard work but it will be brilliant when you finish it
Aldra
If you go back through the thread Alan, you'll see it's about 2 weeks since I did anything of any value, other than a couple of templates and offering up the loo, but the layout has changed twice as positioning problems rear their ugly heads.rosalan said:From the way you are talking, it sounds as if you feel the work is taking a bit too long and a hint of impatience is creeping in. Have a couple of days off and get a second wind.
You are doing a fantastic job and the end result will, I am sure, be worth all of the effort.
You are a star and like others, I cannot wait to see the next batch of pictures enabling me to re-live my own puny efforts at building a motorhome. Something I look back on with great pleasure.
Alan
p.s. I eventually sold mine with a good profit after many happy travels.
The enormity of building the furniture and not being able to buy the materials I'd like to use are very off putting, I'll be OK once I get back out there but currently there are two or three distinct ways to go about building the furniture, I'll attempt not to bore you by going on too long but perhaps in writing clarity of though will arrive.
Method one which is cheapest but furthest from my comfort zone:-
Use timber, or cut quality plywood into strips to make frames and clad it all in 3mm ply (either finished or risk cheapo builders stuff) using some form of corner/junction molding where possible.
Method two is sort of a cross between one and three:-
Use 9mm cheapo ply to make the framework and clad it with 3mm ply as above, the problem with that is I won't be able to use any knock on edging to cover the seen cut edges as the cut will be to close to the edge of the 9mm ply to give and grip to the knock on edging. and it's not the cheapest way to do it either.
Method four is the expensive way:-
Buy about 5 or so 7" x 4" sheets of finished faced 12mm ply @ £55 per sheets and just build out of that, I have all the doors so I don't need to make them.
Then you get to, how am I going to connect part A to part B, not being a joiner the best skill to have when building a MH by far, so if you're considering doing this, make a joiner your best mate, buy him/her lots of beer way in advance.
As said, crap at joinery, so butt joints (stop laughing at the back) or lap joints, (you've been warned) or mortice and tenon joints are just not for me, although butt joints have been tried already with some partial success, I used them to make the window spacer frames as they were being sandwiched and also kept in place by the spray foam which sticks like you know what.
I bought a Pocket screw jig about 2 years ago in anticipation of this build and although I can still use it to make joints, I'm not too happy with some of them, but it could be more down to timber dimensions of the wrong bigness.
As I mentioned somewhere else I went spying on the how the big lads do it and they just use 12mm ply, lots of knock on edging and lots of these little jobbies along with corner moldings of various types, it's more expensive on materials but you don't spend hours doing little fiddly joints, just pre-drill and whack it up. they use quite a lot of special parts peculiar to them so you can't copy them easily.
It's just occured to me that I could also use the above connectors with either strips of ply or with real timber as in reality they are only fancy pocket screw fixings but with a bit more surface area for the pan head screws.
My brain hurts now so going to stop, I need to get into the garage and check out the arbor size on the mitre saw as the tooth count is 12, so way too course for cutting ply without lots of rough cut edges, I got a 42 tooth one for the circular saw last week what a difference it made it looked like it was cut by someone who did have a clue, I also need to get a fine blade for the circular saw, but I'm reluctant as what really pisses me off is that to get the price realistic I have to buy 3 blades, two of which are too coarse, why not just sell me one blade I can use or if I have to have 3 then three the same, no wonder we have global warming, if everyone has to buy 3 times what they need.
I'm off.
When we built the trailer, we had two clear months to build it once the chassis was ready after being powder coated. In that two months we built the whole thing including dismantling the caravan we bought for the interior stuff.
If you can stay at it, AND have good weather, which we did for two months in a row, then you can get a lot of work done. It was all done outside the front of the house.
It is so dependent on having materials ready, money to buy bits you haven't got and also a master plan/drawings of what you are going to do.
Self-builds are not as easy as people think, everything is custom-built and many items are bought and modified before they can be used.
Kev has done well, considering the limitations he has on time and facilities. I was able to go to work early each day and then come back at lunchtime and work through to 10 in the evening.
Peter
If you can stay at it, AND have good weather, which we did for two months in a row, then you can get a lot of work done. It was all done outside the front of the house.
It is so dependent on having materials ready, money to buy bits you haven't got and also a master plan/drawings of what you are going to do.
Self-builds are not as easy as people think, everything is custom-built and many items are bought and modified before they can be used.
Kev has done well, considering the limitations he has on time and facilities. I was able to go to work early each day and then come back at lunchtime and work through to 10 in the evening.
Peter
Keep going
it won't seem like it to you but you are well on the way
it won't seem like it to you but you are well on the way
Time isn't the issue I can devote as much as I need to not being among the employed anymore, got made redundant in 09, applied for a load of jobs, but not having any qualifications got no replies let alone an interview, not bothered anymore, worked since 1965 anyway at mainly heavy jobs so lots of achy joints, a part time driving job would suit me as the dosh would be nice and having somewhere to go when I get up, anything up to 7.5t as I done about 2k miles per week from 82 until 09 as a courier stand in driver you name it lots of wheel experience, still get lost though. :lol: :lol:listerdiesel said:When we built the trailer, we had two clear months to build it once the chassis was ready after being powder coated. In that two months we built the whole thing including dismantling the caravan we bought for the interior stuff.
If you can stay at it, AND have good weather, which we did for two months in a row, then you can get a lot of work done. It was all done outside the front of the house.
It is so dependent on having materials ready, money to buy bits you haven't got and also a master plan/drawings of what you are going to do.
Self-builds are not as easy as people think, everything is custom-built and many items are bought and modified before they can be used.
Kev has done well, considering the limitations he has on time and facilities. I was able to go to work early each day and then come back at lunchtime and work through to 10 in the evening.
Peter
I've just been out annoying the neighbours and making a jig to cut part of a lap joint should I go that way, It gave me a chance to use the Brad Nailer I got from Amazon about 2 years ago and to try out the Lidl Compressor I've only used to blow sawdust of myself before going indoors.
I'm pleased with the jig, just odd off cuts, pleased with the nailer, and the compressor has asthma half a dozen nails and it kicks in again, but good enough for my uses.
Pics in dropbox, (41) don't laugh, it's going to have sub jigs made for individual cuts.
I'm pleased with the jig, just odd off cuts, pleased with the nailer, and the compressor has asthma half a dozen nails and it kicks in again, but good enough for my uses.
Pics in dropbox, (41) don't laugh, it's going to have sub jigs made for individual cuts.
It's moved on a bit more now, some extra pics just gone on.listerdiesel said:Getting there....
Peter
I've made a sub jig to go on the main slide jig, I can now make another if the timber dims change.
I had to add a structural piece in front of the saw blade as when I clamped it all up to use it was twisting just enough to make a bad cut, I now have to drop it over the blade to use it but it only need to move a few inches so no problem, I also added a push/pull handle in the safe area so I didn't put my right hand in the wrong place, and a couple of small skid pieces on each side underneath as it wobbled a little bit in use, not much but it might affect the cuts squareness.
Update on the Bessey clamps problem, see last paragraph.
He got back to me today letting me know that they were going to swap them all out and replace them with the latest version, I asked how much extra it would cost to go to the next size as I was not getting so much use out of the 450mm ones, he said he'd just bring me the EZS 60-8 which have a much higher clamping force too at 445Lbs at no extra charge, sop a bit of a result there, so it just goes to show that it is worth getting in touch if a product is not as it should be.
You may not have heard of Bessey but they are part of the Gedore group which I remember from my earliest spannering days as a good old British make.
Kev.
Well the kind Bessey rep came back to day, he'd taken one of the errant clamps away for the boffins to look at.Kev_n_Liz said:A bit of an update, not achieved much over the last couple of weeks, I located a few odds and ends to finish off the 2nd hand Seitz windows from Leisure Spares, I tried them before but they said they didn't have them and couldn't get them but mysteriously after a call from my contact at Dometic, they seemed to find some parts and could now order the others, which proves it's not what you know but who you know once more.
The floor is plyed up I used 1 1/2 sheets of 18mm rough stuff as far back as the front of the wheels tubs, the floor is going to be 100mm higher there so I just used some of the old 9mm flooring there and I'll see if I can find and off cut of 20mm for the raised bit as the span is about 600mm and I don't think 18mm is up to it without a central support which would limit what could live under there. I was considering splitting it for and aft to give better access otherwise I'd need to tie a string to anything which got pushed to the front of the void as it's 5' 3" long and my arm isn't :lol:
I built 3 seat benches for the rear end, one of which is still there, but I didn't like the look of them, and the other is only there because it saves me putting my tool on the floor. I'm seriously thinking of using a combination of lightweight ply various molding, pocket screws and 25 x 25mm corner posts to end up with it looking decent, I've just spent a fortune on a new 42 T circular saw blade £11 for a set of 3, when will it all end, I might even get one for the table saw as it looks a bit dodgy too.
I've spent a good bit of time watching Norm and how he sometimes uses more common tools to show a different way of doing things without having a really good tool array and a good sized workshop. I don't know if I learned anything but I watched him. :roll: :roll:
I've refitted the Off side Seitz with some spacers sprayed satin black to hide the internal gubbins, I used 75x6mm plastic trim cut to shape and size I had to cut it thinner to get it to go past the blind when it was retracted but it's all concealed now, the NEW side loading door sliding window has now been in bit so many times I could do it with my eyes closed but it's still very stiff to slide when out of the door an locked solid when in, I think the hole in the door is just nipping it up, so I'll just ease it a bit with my flap wheel once the streets are aired. the worst part is the chuffing mastic gets everywhere as I put loads in, fortunately panel wipe gets it off my paws.
I had to physically re-arrange the proposed layout the other day as I noticed the loo would have to live next to the main rib as it was so the fridge freezer and Spinflo go to the left on the drawing, and the toilet/shower cubicle moves to the right, (see link in sig) I'll do another drawing later. Done now.
It's looking like cruise control and a reversing camera are on hold til the build end as funds get spent on stupid stuff like screws, saw blades and a dozen other incidentals you don't even consider on your first build, yeah OK you did, but I'm not a smart 4rse :lol: :lol:
Bessey clamps (see pic) coming today as the 4 clamps I have keep hanging up mid squeeze apparently they've never had this problem before :wink: :wink:
tata
He got back to me today letting me know that they were going to swap them all out and replace them with the latest version, I asked how much extra it would cost to go to the next size as I was not getting so much use out of the 450mm ones, he said he'd just bring me the EZS 60-8 which have a much higher clamping force too at 445Lbs at no extra charge, sop a bit of a result there, so it just goes to show that it is worth getting in touch if a product is not as it should be.
You may not have heard of Bessey but they are part of the Gedore group which I remember from my earliest spannering days as a good old British make.
Kev.
I revisited the lap joint jig yesterday afternoon, I wasn't getting repeatable cuts, the extra timber I added to stiffen the base didn't do any good, so I cut the jig in half, and now I just have the right section, it did all the work anyway, the other side was just to keep it all level which didn't work, I added 3 small skids to the underside and it's now much more stable but the blade is more exposed, so I clamp a guard in front of the bade just to be on the safe side & anything bigger than a pencil can't get near to the blade.
The saw itself is now the problem, the bevel control broke soon after I got it and although it has a bolt to keep it steady, it does move with the vibration, and there is some wear in all the moving parts so when the blade is under load it moves the spindle out of alignment so it can't cut square that way either.
So I'm on the lookout for a decent table saw with stand, I'll put the other one on Ebay for a couple of quid it still useful, but not for any detailed work, so if anyone has a table saw they need to sell, Please PM me.
The saw itself is now the problem, the bevel control broke soon after I got it and although it has a bolt to keep it steady, it does move with the vibration, and there is some wear in all the moving parts so when the blade is under load it moves the spindle out of alignment so it can't cut square that way either.
So I'm on the lookout for a decent table saw with stand, I'll put the other one on Ebay for a couple of quid it still useful, but not for any detailed work, so if anyone has a table saw they need to sell, Please PM me.
That's a good result Kev - good companies appreciate feedback and do something about it. Could you imagine a no-name far-eastern product manufacturer doing the same?Kev_n_Liz said:Update on the Bessey clamps problem, see last paragraph.
Well the kind Bessey rep came back to day, he'd taken one of the errant clamps away for the boffins to look at.Kev_n_Liz said:A bit of an update, not achieved much over the last couple of weeks, I located a few odds and ends to finish off the 2nd hand Seitz windows from Leisure Spares, I tried them before but they said they didn't have them and couldn't get them but mysteriously after a call from my contact at Dometic, they seemed to find some parts and could now order the others, which proves it's not what you know but who you know once more.
The floor is plyed up I used 1 1/2 sheets of 18mm rough stuff as far back as the front of the wheels tubs, the floor is going to be 100mm higher there so I just used some of the old 9mm flooring there and I'll see if I can find and off cut of 20mm for the raised bit as the span is about 600mm and I don't think 18mm is up to it without a central support which would limit what could live under there. I was considering splitting it for and aft to give better access otherwise I'd need to tie a string to anything which got pushed to the front of the void as it's 5' 3" long and my arm isn't :lol:
I built 3 seat benches for the rear end, one of which is still there, but I didn't like the look of them, and the other is only there because it saves me putting my tool on the floor. I'm seriously thinking of using a combination of lightweight ply various molding, pocket screws and 25 x 25mm corner posts to end up with it looking decent, I've just spent a fortune on a new 42 T circular saw blade £11 for a set of 3, when will it all end, I might even get one for the table saw as it looks a bit dodgy too.
I've spent a good bit of time watching Norm and how he sometimes uses more common tools to show a different way of doing things without having a really good tool array and a good sized workshop. I don't know if I learned anything but I watched him. :roll: :roll:
I've refitted the Off side Seitz with some spacers sprayed satin black to hide the internal gubbins, I used 75x6mm plastic trim cut to shape and size I had to cut it thinner to get it to go past the blind when it was retracted but it's all concealed now, the NEW side loading door sliding window has now been in bit so many times I could do it with my eyes closed but it's still very stiff to slide when out of the door an locked solid when in, I think the hole in the door is just nipping it up, so I'll just ease it a bit with my flap wheel once the streets are aired. the worst part is the chuffing mastic gets everywhere as I put loads in, fortunately panel wipe gets it off my paws.
I had to physically re-arrange the proposed layout the other day as I noticed the loo would have to live next to the main rib as it was so the fridge freezer and Spinflo go to the left on the drawing, and the toilet/shower cubicle moves to the right, (see link in sig) I'll do another drawing later. Done now.
It's looking like cruise control and a reversing camera are on hold til the build end as funds get spent on stupid stuff like screws, saw blades and a dozen other incidentals you don't even consider on your first build, yeah OK you did, but I'm not a smart 4rse :lol: :lol:
Bessey clamps (see pic) coming today as the 4 clamps I have keep hanging up mid squeeze apparently they've never had this problem before :wink: :wink:
tata
He got back to me today letting me know that they were going to swap them all out and replace them with the latest version, I asked how much extra it would cost to go to the next size as I was not getting so much use out of the 450mm ones, he said he'd just bring me the EZS 60-8 which have a much higher clamping force too at 445Lbs at no extra charge, sop a bit of a result there, so it just goes to show that it is worth getting in touch if a product is not as it should be.
You may not have heard of Bessey but they are part of the Gedore group which I remember from my earliest spannering days as a good old British make.
Kev.
Colin
It might be worth looking at some of the commercial and industrial auction houses, such as Butchers. A couple of years back, I picked up a Secanta table saw from one in Bristol for only £85. The unit was in good condition overall, still in true, and only needed a new saw blade. What with times being hard at the moment, there could well be similar bargains out there.Kev_n_Liz said:I revisited the lap joint jig yesterday afternoon, I wasn't getting repeatable cuts, the extra timber I added to stiffen the base didn't do any good, so I cut the jig in half, and now I just have the right section, it did all the work anyway, the other side was just to keep it all level which didn't work, I added 3 small skids to the underside and it's now much more stable but the blade is more exposed, so I clamp a guard in front of the bade just to be on the safe side & anything bigger than a pencil can't get near to the blade.
The saw itself is now the problem, the bevel control broke soon after I got it and although it has a bolt to keep it steady, it does move with the vibration, and there is some wear in all the moving parts so when the blade is under load it moves the spindle out of alignment so it can't cut square that way either.
So I'm on the lookout for a decent table saw with stand, I'll put the other one on Ebay for a couple of quid it still useful, but not for any detailed work, so if anyone has a table saw they need to sell, Please PM me.
Colin
Good tip Colin, cheers mate. :wink:camallison said:It might be worth looking at some of the commercial and industrial auction houses, such as Butchers. A couple of years back, I picked up a Secanta table saw from one in Bristol for only £85. The unit was in good condition overall, still in true, and only needed a new saw blade. What with times being hard at the moment, there could well be similar bargains out there.Kev_n_Liz said:I revisited the lap joint jig yesterday afternoon, I wasn't getting repeatable cuts, the extra timber I added to stiffen the base didn't do any good, so I cut the jig in half, and now I just have the right section, it did all the work anyway, the other side was just to keep it all level which didn't work, I added 3 small skids to the underside and it's now much more stable but the blade is more exposed, so I clamp a guard in front of the bade just to be on the safe side & anything bigger than a pencil can't get near to the blade.
The saw itself is now the problem, the bevel control broke soon after I got it and although it has a bolt to keep it steady, it does move with the vibration, and there is some wear in all the moving parts so when the blade is under load it moves the spindle out of alignment so it can't cut square that way either.
So I'm on the lookout for a decent table saw with stand, I'll put the other one on Ebay for a couple of quid it still useful, but not for any detailed work, so if anyone has a table saw they need to sell, Please PM me.
Colin
blimey is this the same Kev I am reading here !
Hadn't seen this thread until now Kev, cracking job you are doing there mate, well impressed
Good luck, will watch the thread with interest to see the finished product
Hadn't seen this thread until now Kev, cracking job you are doing there mate, well impressed
Good luck, will watch the thread with interest to see the finished product
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