[Pudsey_Bear]

Not today but in the next few weeks, I did this mod on the self build after seeing Techno100 doing the same, my sockets are a bit slack (steady) same on this van, both are 07 models so later ones might not need it, but I still have a few sockets as I imported a few and sold them on Ebay, so no real cost involved in doing it again

 

[Pudsey_Bear]

This is the type I used, and are a much tighter fit, and also available in a USB dual socket.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403216753245?hash=item5de197625d:g:K3kAAOSw0TBgZYOs

I also fitted them both in the lounge area, they're ideal as the depth of the socket allows fitting to quite thick materials.

 

[GMJ]

I'm loading mine (in fact just finished) ready for our trip tomorrow. Plugged in; fridge on; bed made; boiler filled; water pressurised; clothes in; non fresh food in; odds 'n sods in.

Just fresh food and last minute bits tomorrow and then off for 11 days.

 

[Pudsey_Bear]

hoping to get solar fitted next week while Liz is away (yet again) I also want to find a way to get the hab lighting to work independently of the swifts crap control panel, just need to pick up 12v and run it through the cupboards, got switches, blubs and wiring ready to go.

 

[raynipper]

Ever wondered why Liz is away a lot Kev?

Ray.

 

[Penquin]

hoping to get solar fitted next week while Liz is away (yet again) I also want to find a way to get the hab lighting to work independently of the swifts crap control panel, just need to pick up 12v and run it through the cupboards, got switches, blubs and wiring ready to go.

Have you arranged 12v supply in back while engine running ?

That, to me, is one of the least desirable features imposed by the National Caravan Council in order for registration to be permitted, simply requires snipping one wire to disable and that could always be switched separately if you REALLY want to have no 12v in back while engine running……

 

[Pudsey_Bear]

Ever wondered why Liz is away a lot Kev?

Ray.

Do one you old tart >>

 

[Pudsey_Bear]

Have you arranged 12v supply in back while engine running ?

That, to me, is one of the least desirable features imposed by the National Caravan Council in order for registration to be permitted, simply requires snipping one wire to disable and that could always be switched separately if you REALLY want to have no 12v in back while engine running……

I would always want 12v in the back Dave, dunno why you wouldn't anyway, handy to have live lights and 12v sockets to charge tablets etc, and if pulling over in winter for a brew I would put the heating on high and leave the engine running, we also sometimes have a slow cooker running off an inverter too.

 

[JanHank]

I would always want 12v in the back Dave, dunno why you wouldn't anyway, handy to have live lights and 12v sockets to charge tablets etc, and if pulling over in winter for a brew I would put the heating on high and leave the engine running, we also sometimes have a slow cooker running off an inverter too.

I´ve got those in the Navajo, very handy for charging things and not draining the hab batteries when stationary.

 

[242633]

hoping to get solar fitted next week while Liz is away (yet again) I also want to find a way to get the hab lighting to work independently of the swifts crap control panel, just need to pick up 12v and run it through the cupboards, got switches, blubs and wiring ready to go.

We had a 180w Solar Panel fitted free as part of the purchase in late April 21 and it was great during Summer [over 400Wh 2 days running at a non EHU Rally}. The Scottish Winter has reduced the output hugely. Zero yesterday, and roughly 1/2 of December/January at 20Wh or less, with a 'peak' power generation of 5W! Tuesday was the first sunny January day, so, whilst we hunted for the Factor 50 suntan lotion, the Solar went mad and churned out 70Wh [followed by yesterday's zero output ...] :grin2:

Steve

 

[Pudsey_Bear]

It isn't a biggy fr us nowadays, just a handy add on if I hadn't already had the panel I'd not have bothered.

 

[Pudsey_Bear]

it has taken about an hour to fit 4 LEDs lamps to replace the Halogens, 2 silly tiny nuts on each to hold the lens on, I had a quick look for 12v in the upper lockers, it's there but controlled via the swift control panel so no good for me, when the built this they have a double skin under the top lockers which is where all the wiring runs and it looks like they did it all before fitting it into the van which makes it a bugger of a job I could do with a waggly screwdriver. I also looked for a convenient place to site the MPPT controller, behind the curtain next to the wardrobe, which is under the panels site and above the batteries so that should work out quite well.

Tried out the new USB charger plug, looks good, give volts, amps and temperature.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/prs4ypjo36y84g3/20220114_120736.mp4?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/tsrbzf3djn6xsav/20220114_120607.mp4?dl=0

 

[Pudsey_Bear]

I had another look at the screws I need to get out to remove the lower under locker panel, and the screwdrivers need to be really short so I just bought these, nine screws to remove in total and put back in so should last long enough for that I hope.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333752890771?epid=2255292258&hash=item4db538f593:g:plIAAOSwnwpfhbQz

 

[Pudsey_Bear]

The small screwdrivers just arrived, might be too small, would suit

tiny hands.

 

[GMJ]

Oh dear they do look small matey!

 

[Pudsey_Bear]

There isn't a lot of room to work in though I only need one of them so I'll use up a couple of my laggy bands to make them more grippy and fit me mits gooder and they may come in useful some time I can't complain for £3.75 delivered.

 

[JanHank]

Not what I have been doing, but I am having it done, changing the plastic pipes for copper to accommodate the new drain taps.

 

[Pudsey_Bear]

Not the best idea, make sure they are well supported and cannot flex when driving on rough roads copper can work harden and snap they will also corrode, they use plastic because it is a better material for external use, I'd have just replaced the tap.

 

[JanHank]

Not the best idea, make sure they are well supported and cannot flex when driving on rough roads copper can work harden and snap they will also corrode, they use plastic because it is a better material for external use, I'd have just replaced the tap.

So would I but the fittings are not compatible.
Hans worked with copper a lot, water runs through copper pipes, we used to clean soldered copper pies in acid so I don't see why you think it corrodes. The plastic pipe supports will also hold copper pipes.

Oh I forgot, our drain pipes are copper, nothing more outside than that.

 

[Pudsey_Bear]

Just an opinion.