Motorhome Facts Forum banner

Before you buy a solar system...

1 reading
19K views 56 replies 20 participants last post by  lgbzone  
#1 ·
plan it with all the information you can find available on the forum and then considder this.....

http://screencast.com/t/6fvjlZjAw

(today)
Note the 80 watt panel can travel from flat to 90 degrees upright and at 10 am on a sunny winters day inclined facing the sun it can produce 14.4v x 2.53a which is 36w .... if i move it 30 degrees either side of the optimum horizontal the amps only drop to 2.41 (when flat it produced 13.6v x 0.98a =13.5w) and both figures were taken with the panel directly conected to a battery.

To put this into perspective i have 285w flat on the motorhome via regulators and the best they could do was 13.2 x 2.14 = 28w

Whats blatently obvious is the need to incorporate the tilting mount if you want nearly 3 times the performance of flat mounted panels in the low sun months, and the cost savings over more watts via more panels and weight savings far outweigh the inconvenience of having to park to maximise the output on the horizontal plane and you can still use them flat if thats not possible. The only other concern might be the panels "visible" to passers by when tilted.

hope this is of help...
 
#3 ·
not my idea, and i m gutted as i usualy think things through better and cover everything before i do something... but missed this trick :cry:

No ideas on swivel, but i can put up with the parking in a directional fashion as it lines up perfect where its parked most of the time at home...

2 x 80w tilt would certainly be enough for full timers in europe :wink:
 
#4 ·
I saw a similar idea to this on a narrow boat.

Excuse excruciating drawing.

The uprights are slides with a wing nut to adjust.

Perhaps someone with drawing skills could produce a better image?

Needs a bit of work! :roll:
 

Attachments

#5 ·
I'm going this route with 2x80w (or poss 100w) tilting panels and an MPPT controller.

I propose to fit them on the roof on the habitation door side (which will be UK "off-side" where they will be accessible for tilting from one of the Heki's.
This will mean I'll always be trying to park with the awning side of the mh facing due south. Am I being optimistic in thinking that (except wilding) I'll be able to orientate that way often enough to warrant doing it ?
 
#7 ·
Any manual tilt and turn system would require constant adjustment to keep it pointed directly at the sun.
How many of us have enough unobstructed space on our roof to allow a panel to rotate through 180 degrees during the day?
I'm loath to add any extra weight to my roof as my motorhome rolls enough around islands as it is.
Any extra framework under the panel adds to the overall height, increasing exposure to branches and the like.
Realistically, the framework and mountings need to be able to withstand 100mph winds, you are travelling at 60mph and meet a 40mph gust getting under the flatened panel.
How do you prevent the extra foot of free cable from flapping about under the panel when you are travelling?
You are away from your motorhome during the day with the panel raised, and a sudden squall whips up a strong wind, how secure do you need make your fittings to cover this?
If your power requirements are that tight, would it not be a better option to add another, fixed' panel, or get a free-standing panel on the ground and you can move that around to face the sun during the day.
 
#8 ·
Hi,

I must admit I agree with Bill H, I have already have 2 x 80 watt solar panels on the roof of the motorhome.

At Aldrige Hill New Forest site I have seen freestanding panels which maximise the panel efficiency, all these adjustable/ tracking systems are not only over complicated and heavy, but present problems in there self.
 
#9 ·
Any manual tilt and turn system would require constant adjus

Any manual tilt and turn system would require constant adjus
Ideally yes, in practice no. Having two panels at the optimum angle for say the middle 4 hours of the day in winter is far, far more efficient than having twice the number of horizontal panels. It doesn't need to turn, tilt is enough.

How do you know they are "heavy" the extra weight is just two window hinges, a lot lighter and cheaper than adding additional panels.

You only have to play around with a panel, regulator and ammeter to see what a difference this makes when the sun is low. It really is a no-brainer if you're fitting panels to provide power whilst overwintering & wilding around the med.
 
#11 ·
Bill_H said:
Any manual tilt and turn system would require constant adjustment to keep it pointed directly at the sun.
How many of us have enough unobstructed space on our roof to allow a panel to rotate through 180 degrees during the day?
I'm loath to add any extra weight to my roof as my motorhome rolls enough around islands as it is.
Any extra framework under the panel adds to the overall height, increasing exposure to branches and the like.
Realistically, the framework and mountings need to be able to withstand 100mph winds, you are travelling at 60mph and meet a 40mph gust getting under the flatened panel.
How do you prevent the extra foot of free cable from flapping about under the panel when you are travelling?
You are away from your motorhome during the day with the panel raised, and a sudden squall whips up a strong wind, how secure do you need make your fittings to cover this?
If your power requirements are that tight, would it not be a better option to add another, fixed' panel, or get a free-standing panel on the ground and you can move that around to face the sun during the day.
Constant adjustment? No, just tilted up to face the average direction of the sun.

Extra weight? Not a lot. And why are you sailing your moho round islands, haven't you heard of boats? :)

100 mph winds? Time to park up methinks.

Securing cable? Clips or curly wire.

Always secure your moho before leaving for the day trip..

Problems are for solving, otherwise we would still be using flint tools.
 
#12 ·
Re: Any manual tilt and turn system would require constant a

subfiver said:
Any manual tilt and turn system would require constant adjus
Ideally yes, in practice no. Having two panels at the optimum angle for say the middle 4 hours of the day in winter is far, far more efficient than having twice the number of horizontal panels. It doesn't need to turn, tilt is enough.

How do you know they are "heavy" the extra weight is just two window hinges, a lot lighter and cheaper than adding additional panels.

You only have to play around with a panel, regulator and ammeter to see what a difference this makes when the sun is low. It really is a no-brainer if you're fitting panels to provide power whilst overwintering & wilding around the med.
I was thinking more about the weight of the ladder I'd need carry to reach the brackets to move the panel.
 
#13 ·
I don't understand the low output from the 280w panels. My 230 watt panel mounted flat produces 31 volts at times during the day here in northern Italy mid winter. Not sure of the amps but if I turn on the 40w tv during the sunny times of day there is no discharge shown.
 
#14 ·
Bill_H said:
Any manual tilt and turn system would require constant adjustment to keep it pointed directly at the sun.
How many of us have enough unobstructed space on our roof to allow a panel to rotate through 180 degrees during the day?
I'm loath to add any extra weight to my roof as my motorhome rolls enough around islands as it is.
Any extra framework under the panel adds to the overall height, increasing exposure to branches and the like.
Realistically, the framework and mountings need to be able to withstand 100mph winds, you are travelling at 60mph and meet a 40mph gust getting under the flatened panel.
How do you prevent the extra foot of free cable from flapping about under the panel when you are travelling?
You are away from your motorhome during the day with the panel raised, and a sudden squall whips up a strong wind, how secure do you need make your fittings to cover this?
If your power requirements are that tight, would it not be a better option to add another, fixed' panel, or get a free-standing panel on the ground and you can move that around to face the sun during the day.
No ones proposing you drive with it up, the whole point is you tilt it up when you stop :lol: As for wind, you can adjust the tension on the hinges and more than likely it ll fall back into flat mode in a wind :wink:

As for height when flat, mine is 65mm :wink:

I ve tested everything and its definately the way to go for anyone considdering solar as you re finding fault that doesnt exist....

As for the cable it simply tie wraps to the hinge side of the panel and theres no need for anything flapping around :wink:

2 x 80w tilt panels will give 2x 36 w = 72 w in uk jan/feb sun which is approx 5a for 5 hours or 25ah.... job done and i ve explained to achieve this they dont need to be constantly adjusted and why earlier.....

And one can only speculate how much more you d get in southern europe....
 
#15 ·
spatz1 said:
Bill_H said:
Any manual tilt and turn system would require constant adjustment to keep it pointed directly at the sun.
How many of us have enough unobstructed space on our roof to allow a panel to rotate through 180 degrees during the day?
I'm loath to add any extra weight to my roof as my motorhome rolls enough around islands as it is.
Any extra framework under the panel adds to the overall height, increasing exposure to branches and the like.
Realistically, the framework and mountings need to be able to withstand 100mph winds, you are travelling at 60mph and meet a 40mph gust getting under the flatened panel.
How do you prevent the extra foot of free cable from flapping about under the panel when you are travelling?
You are away from your motorhome during the day with the panel raised, and a sudden squall whips up a strong wind, how secure do you need make your fittings to cover this?
If your power requirements are that tight, would it not be a better option to add another, fixed' panel, or get a free-standing panel on the ground and you can move that around to face the sun during the day.
No ones proposing you drive with it up, the whole point is you tilt it up when you stop :lol: As for wind, you can adjust the tension on the hinges and more than likely it ll fall back into flat mode in a wind :wink:

As for height when flat, mine is 65mm :wink:

I ve tested everything and its definately the way to go for anyone considdering solar as you re finding fault that doesnt exist....

As for the cable it simply tie wraps to the hinge side of the panel and theres no need for anything flapping around :wink:

2 x 80w tilt panels will give 2x 36 w = 72 w in uk jan/feb sun which is approx 5a for 5 hours or 25ah.... job done and i ve explained to achieve this they dont need to be constantly adjusted and why earlier.....

And one can only speculate how much more you d get in southern europe....
If you re-read my post, you may notice that I refered to wind under a flattened panel.
As for the cable tie near the hinge, are you saying that the panel only tilts in one direction?
 
#16 ·
yep only tilts in one direction, and the whole idea is that you make an effort to park in the direction that best suits the panel..... east west or west east depending on how you ve hinged it...

I personally cant be ass . d to do anything more than stop and tilt and realise to make a full swivel base and faff around with it in opperation is not what i want nor would i pay the inflated cost of making that possible....

This tilt system is a simple cost effective way of getting the most out of your panel you ve spent over ÂŁ150 plus setting up to get barely nothing from in in low winter sun..... :wink:

my motto, keep it simple :lol:
 
#17 ·
For nearly 2 years I have used mine (90 watt) freestanding, propped up on the ground. It has not been nicked and has kept us going in Winter. I use a long stick in Winter and a short one in Summer. :lol:

If owners can stand on a roof then the bit of extra weight will make no difference.
 
#18 ·
I am sorry, but I am going to upset you, I cant believe that someone will spend ten of thousands of pounds on their pride and joy, then fit some Heath Robinson device on the roof of their motorhome.

These double glazing window hinges were never designed for the loading you are going to subject them to, you also need to consider you position regarding insurance.
 
#19 ·
Oscarmax said:
I am sorry, but I am going to upset you, I cant believe that someone will spend ten of thousands of pounds on their pride and joy, then fit some Heath Robinson device on the roof of their motorhome.

These double glazing window hinges were never designed for the loading you are going to subject them to, you also need to consider you position regarding insurance.
I think the clue is in "double" glazing at 4 mm a piece and a heavy frame.... :wink:

Fortunate you were not around when the wheel was invented :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
#20 ·
I'll be incorporating a "pin" thro' the frame somewhere as a means of locking it in the down position. The pins, when removed to tilt the panels, will be stored dangling in the driver's sight-line to prevent mishaps.

As to tilting, I have a heki that I can put head 'n' shoulders thro' perfectly easily - I'll have the panels within reach from inside the van. And I have a ladder up t'back if needs be (but that will have my scooter's garage-ramp stored on it)

If you're starting from scratch, as I am, tilting panels + MPPT controller is a given.

IMHO
 
#22 ·
Indeed; the Ten-Haft SamySolar was my first choice.

The cons are:
it's only 50w
polycrystalline not mono-crystalline
Expensive

You pays your money (a lot!), but both solar energy harvesting and sat TV reception are compromised due to the size of the dish and panel.

I also looked at a mix of flat panels and a Samysolar, but to get the most out of an MPPT controller (and I do want to get the most out of it) I've been advised that multiple panels need to be the same spec. So that Idea went out the window too ...
 
#25 ·
subfiver said:
Yes, saw those too, but outdoorbits say that they're no longer on sale in UK; dunno if vanbitz actually have any.....
We (Van Bitz)decided last year to stop importing them. at the end of the year, Dave (outdoor bits) took an order for one and persuaded us to import one last one for his customer.

Van Bitz arranged to send the Phenix from the factory direct to the customer, who decided to go out and left a note to leave it down the side of the house :roll:

The box was very bashed up, so the guy took some photos. When the box was opened the guy noticed that the controller was broken!

He complained to Dave, who contacted us. We spoke to Alden who checked the delivery notes and said "Ah, the box was not signed for as "damaged" so we will not do anything about it"

So some one was going to loose out. The carriers claimed that the box was fine when they delivered it. Alden said that they couldn't help as their carriers said that it was delivered safely. Outdoorbits simply passed the order along so it wasn't Dave's fault either!

Frankly it should have been the bloke that asked for a ÂŁ2500 solar panel be left down beside the house! But things don't always work the way that they should!

Van Bitz ended up supplying a new controller from stock, as we are the idiots that keep the stock and the spares on all this stuff and we then decided that we would not risk the carriers breaking any more. So no, Dave isn't being difficult, we have advised them not to sell any more!

Eddie
 
#26 ·
Not much information on tilting panels on the net so i did a rough u tube demonstration of power outputs tilt and flat..... It was done at 10 am today rather than mid solar day peak...


I also noted shading just one cell wipes out 90% of the output :eek:

I can only conclude i cannot see the point in fitting solar panels without a basic tilt mechanism nor can i see the point of a very expensive tracking system ...

This proves its no longer necessary to fit 80w for winter storage when a tilted lower watt panel would more than surfice, match output and be much more cost effective.... :wink: