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adria123 said:
Would I be better just to send the PCB board to truma and let them test it before I go out and start buying any parts?
That would be an option but not foolproof. I would be surprised if it was the board at fault, more likely it's due to some other issue.

eurajohns reply is absolutely correct, you need to eliminate all the factors that may cause the gas valve to close before you can assume a PCB problem.

The most common problem is undoubtably regulator failure or some other gas supply related problem and you ned to eliminate these first. The Truma regulators fail gradually as the rubber valve seal swells and the gas supply won't simply cut off, it'll just become restricted and will have no effect until a high gas flow is called for. Either low gas level or regulator (or hose) restriction would be my first port of call.
Also you may think your gas bottle is full but it's worth changing the bottle if you have a spare just to be sure, bottles with low gas levels will cause this sort of problem all the time.

Unfortunately I can't recommend a gas expert in Yorkshire but I'm sure there are others here who can.
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
gaspode said:
adria123 said:
Would I be better just to send the PCB board to truma and let them test it before I go out and start buying any parts?
That would be an option but not foolproof. I would be surprised if it was the board at fault, more likely it's due to some other issue.

eurajohns reply is absolutely correct, you need to eliminate all the factors that may cause the gas valve to close before you can assume a PCB problem.

The most common problem is undoubtably regulator failure or some other gas supply related problem and you ned to eliminate these first. The Truma regulators fail gradually as the rubber valve seal swells and the gas supply won't simply cut off, it'll just become restricted and will have no effect until a high gas flow is called for. Either low gas level or regulator (or hose) restriction would be my first port of call.
Also you may think your gas bottle is full but it's worth changing the bottle if you have a spare just to be sure, bottles with low gas levels will cause this sort of problem all the time.

Unfortunately I can't recommend a gas expert in Yorkshire but I'm sure there are others here who can.
Thanks for your reply,

The gas bottle is full I will check the regulator and report back.
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
gaspode said:
adria123 said:
Would I be better just to send the PCB board to truma and let them test it before I go out and start buying any parts?
That would be an option but not foolproof. I would be surprised if it was the board at fault, more likely it's due to some other issue.

eurajohns reply is absolutely correct, you need to eliminate all the factors that may cause the gas valve to close before you can assume a PCB problem.

The most common problem is undoubtably regulator failure or some other gas supply related problem and you ned to eliminate these first. The Truma regulators fail gradually as the rubber valve seal swells and the gas supply won't simply cut off, it'll just become restricted and will have no effect until a high gas flow is called for. Either low gas level or regulator (or hose) restriction would be my first port of call.
Also you may think your gas bottle is full but it's worth changing the bottle if you have a spare just to be sure, bottles with low gas levels will cause this sort of problem all the time.

Unfortunately I can't recommend a gas expert in Yorkshire but I'm sure there are others here who can.
Does it have to be a Truma regulator and what would be the best way to check regulator? Turn hob, grill, fridge on and then boiler water/heater on. Or is there another way I can test regulator?
 
adria123 said:
Does it have to be a Truma regulator and what would be the best way to check regulator? Turn hob, grill, fridge on and then boiler water/heater on. Or is there another way I can test regulator?
It could be several makes of regulator that is fitted, any one of them could fail but reports here suggest that the Truma ones have proved especially prone to failure so if it's a Truma I would be more suspicious. Also the high pressure pigtails can swell internally due to contamination from oily residues in the LPG softening the rubber core. This causes a restriction (like artery disease) to the gas flow.

Detecting reduced gas flow is not that simple until it becomes almost terminal. As others have stated, best way is to get as much gas flowing as possible and observe if the size of flame reduces slightly as more demand is made on the gas supply. There should be no observable reduction in flame size as demand increases if the regulator is working OK and the hoses are good.

And I would still try a different gas bottle if you have one, plenty of members here will tell you they've been convinced a bottle was full when it wasn't.

May also be worth checking that there are no obstructions (insects, leaves etc.) stuck in the flue and air intakes as this will cause the symptoms you describe.
 
Morning all,


I,ll bet a fiver its the regulator. You could try autogas 2000 up near thirsk. They are truma dealers .

My regulator has croaked again after less than a year , this is why they now supply a filter system at about ÂŁ75 + a replacement filter @ ÂŁ37. I have been having similar problems to you so this time I am going for the gaslow regulator.


norm
 
Truma boiler repair

Don't know if this is any use but when i had trouble with my boiler, after trying several attempts to repair it by so called experts I took it to the factory where they have a dedicated repair shop.

It took about about an hour to repair the boiler (a burnt out mains fuse holder)
Best part no charge even though the van was out of guarantee

Bryan
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
Re: Truma boiler repair

thesnail said:
Don't know if this is any use but when i had trouble with my boiler, after trying several attempts to repair it by so called experts I took it to the factory where they have a dedicated repair shop.

It took about about an hour to repair the boiler (a burnt out mains fuse holder)
Best part no charge even though the van was out of guarantee

Bryan
Hi,

Where abouts did you take your camper to, was it a Truma dealer?
 
In an earlier post you asked how to test the regulator
Can I suggest you buy a bog standard propane regulator (cost approx ÂŁ6) from any camping shop
connect to the low pressure side of the existing regulator using as already advised a hose and hose clip
This is now your replacement regulator and will prove that the gas supply is correct if the boiler fires.
This must be your first move because it is the most common fault with these boilers.
Don't be distracted by other well meaning advice until you have established this most basic requirement.
Good luck
Roger
 
"If it was the regulator the hob and oven wouldnt work because of reduced gas flow"

Don't bet on it! I had a similar problem. It got worse and worse until the boiler would not light, although the hob, oven and fridge all worked fine (at the same time.)

I removed the regulator and "rubber pig tail" and found both full of a smelly yellow liquid residue. After blowing through all the gas pipes with a compressed air line, i replaced both regulator and pig tail, the boiler sparked up first time.

As mine is an old Hymer, it was designed for, and all the gas appliances were jetted for a 50mbar regular. I ditched the expensive 30mbar Truma regulator someone had fitted with a much cheaper 50mbar Gok regulator, and have no problems since.
 
adria123 said:
[

Hi,

Yes I have just bought it.
I read up to last night, and just looked in again now.... no one seems to have asked one question

You have just brought it, did you buy from a dealer - if so - go back and get them to sort it..

If not then as Bryan (the snail) said, go to the factory, and get it fixed, especially if you don't feel capable of following some of the suggestions on here.

Carol
 
Discussion starter · #55 ·
carol said:
adria123 said:
[

Hi,

Yes I have just bought it.
I read up to last night, and just looked in again now.... no one seems to have asked one question

You have just brought it, did you buy from a dealer - if so - go back and get them to sort it..

If not then as Bryan (the snail) said, go to the factory, and get it fixed, especially if you don't feel capable of following some of the suggestions on here.

Carol
Hi Carol,

Yes i have just bought it from a couple who was emigrating and don't have there contact details otherwise i would have give them a call,

i have had the fish tail off and tried cleaning inspecting it but no joy gonna try and get a cheap regulator and try that before i give truma a call,

where is truma uk based?
 
Discussion starter · #56 ·
Roger7webster said:
In an earlier post you asked how to test the regulator
Can I suggest you buy a bog standard propane regulator (cost approx ÂŁ6) from any camping shop
connect to the low pressure side of the existing regulator using as already advised a hose and hose clip
This is now your replacement regulator and will prove that the gas supply is correct if the boiler fires.
This must be your first move because it is the most common fault with these boilers.
Don't be distracted by other well meaning advice until you have established this most basic requirement.
Good luck
Roger
Hi,

thanks for your reply,

my regulator is a Truma SecuMotion 1.2kg/h 30mbar Regulator 8mm,

Is the low pressure side the black cap or the nut what screws off on the other side?
 
I had a similar fault with my Truma C6002EH boiler in my 2007 Hymer. When switched on it would click, not fire up and after 30 seconds the red light would come on and shut down. Contacted Truma at Burton who would not deal with the public direct and informed me to contact a Truma agent which I did. The mobile engineer did various checks ie: gas, electric etc. Mine was an intermittent fault which failed more often than not. He decided that because it was an intermittent fault to take the boiler out and send it to Truma at Burton. Following tests they diagnosed a faulty PCB which they replaced and returned the boiler to my engineer who then came out and refitted it. The cost to for the Truma engineer to come to my home twice, remove, package, shipment to and from Truma, testing and fitting new PCB at Truma and refitting of boiler back into my motor home by the engineer - total cost ÂŁ438.00.
 
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