The factory set code is usually in the radio's handbook (Have you still got it?)

 

I used to use a 9v battery soldered to a ciggy lighter plug, it enough to keep it going while you swap over or if you can, get a length of wire from the positive on your LBs, with a fuse of course no need to use the negative as the chassis provides that.

 

Thanks for the advice so far, I'll check for the radio handbook this afternoon.

 

I found the radio handbook Jiggles But guess what? It states that the code is on a card which I can now remember, but can I find it?

I'd like to kemp now more about your 9v gizmo if you would've mind Kev please.

 

Run a wire with a couple of crocodile clips from you Lb + terminal to the + jump start terminal uner the bonnet, no need for any hefty stuff, any old bit will do,for the few minutes you will need.

Are you SURE your radio isn't wired to the LB's ? Because mine certainly is (stops you flattening the starter battery when parked up) AND the radio hasn worked after I had disconnected both LB's for a few minutes.

 

I found the radio handbook Jiggles But guess what? It states that the code is on a card which I can now remember, but can I find it?

I'd like to kemp now more about your 9v gizmo if you would've mind Kev please.

You'll need one of these or one of these and one of these pop in one of these

9v is of course low for normal use, but this is an old dodge garages use if they need to do a job where the battery needs to be disconnected and the card/code isn't present, it saves them waiting for the owner to let them know the code, the ignition will need to be on for most modern vehicles, and the battery will last overnight in most cases, but just get everything ready before the final disconnect of the starter battery.

I'd just get a length of wire put a 5a fuse in it and connect it to the +ve LB terminal, with a clip or a ring terminal at each end to make it secure.

 

Sorry for being a little slow here, but I'm not quite getting what connects to where and when during the disconnection process?

Could someone please explain the process as they would to a colour blind incompetent non-garage mechanic as this would be fairly accurate.

 

Perhaps you might be better letting a garage do this job.

 

Could I ask where is the battery on the vehicle, under the bonnet or inside in front of the passenger seat under the floor mat.
Mr plod has given an easy solution, Or you could as said just go down to a battery shop and ask them to fit it. Even the dreaded Halfords cannot mess that up surely.

cabby

 

Thanks Cabby,

The battery is right hand side under the bonnet as you look at it. Halfords is at least 90 miles away and includes a ferry crossing.

I may have slightly underplayed my practical ability, but irony has never been a strong point Kev.

I didn't want to upset anyone regarding clarity of instructions, especially those who'd taken the trouble to explain a process.

May have also omitted that no one in the UK will post replacement batteries to the island, so thought I might glean an idea or two about how to fool the radio by leaving a system in place for three days or so while I take the duffer over to the adjacent isle to get a fairly good replacement.

Thanks, Mike.

 

Try;

http://www.tayna.co.uk/delivery

they state that they WILL deliver to the islands although it may take a day longer than their normal following day practice.

We have used them and they are superb; economic and efficient at delivery even to rural France (47 hours)......

give them a ring and discuss it........ that is the best policy....

As regards keeping the radio alive (the card is not much larger than a normal business card for our 2003 Kontiki), you can simply crocodile clip a wire to the red positive terminal on the LB (which is under the driver seat), then connect another crocodile clip to the positive block of connections of the battery (it is the one deepest under the bonnet and can be awkward to get at.......

Ideally a 5a fuse in the wire will prevent excess current being drained from the LB.

Then disconnect the vehicle battery from the positive terminal ensuring that the crocodile clip is not disturbed, if it is the code will be lost........

Remove the negative connection from the VB (continuity of the circuit is continued from the LB), remove the battery clamp and then the battery - caution skinned knuckles are likely during that exercise from my experience......

Fit the new VB and clamp it in place, then refit the negative terminal and then the positive terminal, making sure the bolts that clamp the connections on are done up TIGHT (more skinned knuckles ).

Only then disconnect the crocodile clipped wire from the VB and the LB.

That was my technique and it worked........

Repairing the knuckles took longer.........

I hope that helps, I am sure that others will suggest modifications if they disagree with my method......

Dave

 

This is what I was meaning not knowing where you live or which base vehicle you have is always a problem.

Or do it this way I'd stick with the 9v battery though, not confident 1.5v will do the trick for very long, but you'll have a few of those in a drawer somewhere, 8 will = 12v used end to end, + to -

I find Youtube great for showing how things are done, if I've never done it before, finding the right combination of worms is the hard bit, hope you get it sorted.

 

Thanks Kevin got it now and Dave, you were right, they will post to the island, but as per usual the postage is bumped up.

Unusually it's not as extortionate as most carriers, so I think the van will be getting a treat soon.

 

May have also omitted that no one in the UK will post replacement batteries to the island, so thought I might glean an idea or two about how to fool the radio by leaving a system in place for three days or so while I take the duffer over to the adjacent isle to get a fairly good replacement.

Thanks, Mike.

Wouldn't it be cheaper to get a simple RAC membership as they say they cover the IOM and can supply replacement batteries with fitting free for their members? When they replaced my Fiesta battery I had no radio code and the patrol guy connected the battery leads to his starter pack before disconnecting the battery.

 

You would think so rayc, but no one I know bothers with rescue cover locally. The furthest I can be from home without taking a ferry or plane is a little over 15 miles.

A swift google says basic RAC membership plus their battery rescue cover is £46. Then there is the cost of the battery which will have a local price tag (which is the real problem).

Now I know how to bypass the the battery while changing it (thanks Kevin), I'll use my own 'Power Station' starter pack while changing the battery which will cost significantly less from Tayna (thanks Dave) than I can buy locally even with postage.

Don't get me wrong, I always get breakdown and get home cover when we enter the UK or Europe but if I were to break down in the van or the car over here, I'd simply get my friendly service mechanic to sort it.

 

As you don't say why you need to change it, I could be wrong, but might it be easier to keep it charged up, and just go to a garage on the mainland next time you go.

Also have you checked that it is charging from the alternator when driving.

 

Linky

 

It's the original battery Kev and not holding a charge well. As we won't be doing the first of the biannual mad dashes through the adjacent isle to get to the tunnel or ferry until spring, I might as well change it now and have done.

Besides, it'll be too cold soon to bother using the starter pack every time we want to camp out here (which is quite a lot).

The alternator is charging both batteries fine by the way and thanks for the link.

 

You can get your radio re coded so you then have the code for ever most garages(main dealerships) used to be able to do it for a few quid :wink:

 

Thanks Daffodil, but by using my starter pack as shown above while changing the battery, there won't be any need to have the radio re-coded.