Depends on what size of inverter you want really.

Small ones can just go into a cigarette lighter socket. Not ideal in my opinion. A better option is connected direct to the battery, quite close and using heavy cables.

From your post I guess that you have little knowledge and would suggest that you should consider having it done professionally.

 

Couple of things that will influence the answers.
You've not said what output size inverter you are wanting,
You have two batteries what size are they (Ah) and what type i.e. flooded cell, AGM, Gel or Lithium.
You will definitely need to connect whatever inverter you choose direct to the habitation batteries.
Are you aware of the 12v or 24v power requirements of an inverter of a size to run anything other than small accessories.
The EBL should not figure in the connection of an inverter at all, and any inverter socket feeds should be kept discrete from the on board 230 sockets unless you also fit specialist equipment to separate them.

 

I wanted to buy big inverter sth around 4000W. At the moment most powerfull tool I want to use is 750W kitchen blender.

I have 2 batteries (100ah AGM and 120ah Calcium)

I have enough knowledge to connect it, but electroblock is a factor which I don't know how to handle.

To be sure? I should connect it to batteries directly without changing other systems going to ebl?
I will have separated cables going from batteries to inverter and it should be fine? Depend on 12V or 24V it will be connected in series or parrarel

I am aware that they are 12V or 24V inverters, actually this is my problem, don't know which one I should choose.


Thanks for quick response! And help

 

I think you need professional advice.

The cables for connecting such a big inverter would have to be very large and 220Ah of battery power wouldn't drive it at anywhere near max output for more than a short time.

I'd consider a much smaller inverter if I were you.

Perhaps someone else will know more and be able to comment on the battery mix but I suspect it won't be optimal.



This will give you an idea of the limitations using a 4000w inverter at capacity.

How Long Will A 100Ah Battery Run An Appliance That Requires 400W?

How long will a 100ah battery run 400W? When I first saw this question my first reaction was to create a 100 Ah battery discharge calculator for appliances that

www.solarempower.com

A 100Ah 12 volt deep-cycle lead-acid battery can run a 400W continuous DC load for 1.5 hours with the recommended 50% Depth of Discharge. A 100Ah 12 volt deep-cycle lead-acid battery can run a 400W rated AC fridge for 15 hours at a rate of 40 watts per hour.

 

One thing I forgot to mention / ask in my original reply was how do you intend to recharge your batteries?
Your mix of batteries is much less than ideal, your performance will be limited by your weakest battery.
Your inverter installation should be totally separate and not included with EBL at all.
24 volt will be most advantageous so far as cost of installation of your inverter as cables can be smaller, but then you would need to link your batteries to power the inverter and run a buck to get back down to 12 volt for the rest of your system.
Bear in mind the cabling for a 4000w unit will need to be somewhere around 50²mm (at 12volt) but dependant on length and to run at or near its maximum will draw somewhere in the region of 380 amps from 12volt, your batteries will not support that!

 

I meant 4000W inverter in peak, continuous is 2000W.

At the moment plan is to use this 750W blender for maybe 5 min twice a week? It will depend what we will cook.
Other devices i will use from time to time are 2 laptop chargers.
I bought 12V PD chargers so maybe they will be enough for daily use.

Batteries are charged by 100W solar panel. I plan to change solar panel controller for mppt (there is very old one at the moment) and in the future I will add more panels.

This batteries are the one which where inside RV when I bought it, if I will need it they will be changed.

24 volt will be most advantageous so far as cost of installation of your inverter as cables can be smaller, but then you would need to link your batteries to power the inverter and run a buck to get back down to 12 volt for the rest of your system.

I think it will be easier to stay at 12V, I wouldn't need to step down voltage for EBL

my batteries are in the floor and under passenger seat, so around 50cm between them.

Do you have some inverter company which is good quality?
First I wanted do buy from aliexpress, but I read some comments and I have doubts about quality
I am from Poland and I have option to buy in UK too.

Sorry for lots of noob question, but I am new to RV and I am trying to understand everything, but did not have chance to use my Hymer, so don't know how will be when used everyday.

Guys this is lot good information for me
Thanks for help!

 

Go for a pure sine wave inverter, it'll work with sensitive electronics.

 

I've recently done a system upgrade to our van, previously fitted with just one 100Ah EFB battery and a single 130w solar panel with PWM controller, which was insufficient to run our van for just normal usage for more than one day if there was anything other than 8 -10 hours of sun during the day (without large inverter).
I've replaced with a 200Ah Lithium battery 2 additional 175w solar panels (and retained the original 130w) controlled by a Victron MPPT controller, a 30 amp DC to DC charger, along with a Renogy 2000w pure sine inverter.
The reason for the inverter was my wife is addicted to coffee and to allow the use of a 1300 w machine after doing the sums decided that was the set up I'd need.
I can recommend the Renogy inverter it is a decent "budget" unit that works everything we've tried.
Both the battery and the solar controller have Bluetooth apps to monitor and control, interestingly the coffee machine which is labelled as 1300w actually draws 153 amps from the battery, whilst the kettle, also rated 1300w draws 128 amps so add a bit when doing calculations.
The 480w of panels yesterday in decent sunny conditions, although sun very low in sky this time of year saw only around 18 amps going to the battery, whereas when driving the DC to DC charger still delivered a full 30 amps.
Don't forget even a good condition lead acid battery will only safely deliver around 50% of its stated capacity before the voltage drops to below its useable level, whereas a Lithium one will safely go to 80% of its stated capacity without damage and without dropping below its rated 12.8 volts.